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There's no question about it, the best way to truly experience Italy is to go where the tourists are not. While small villages in Tuscany and the like are being flooded with new adventurers looking for authentic life, it's lesser-known cities like the Northern Piedmont's Asti that are the real diamonds in today's rough. An affluent and older community, Asti clings strongly to the sense of tradition and community that represented the Italy of the early 20th century. Best known for its bubbly and sweet Asti Spumante wine, it is also home to an antique Palio horserace, as well as a respectable number of churches and cathedrals. Add to that great
How Do You Get To Asti?
Like everywhere else in Italy, the best way to get to Asti is on a train. Only accessible by limited trains, your best bet is to head for Torino. A main hub for travelling within the Piedmont, you can then ride the hourly InterRegionale straight into downtown Asti. For those who need them, cabs are always waiting right outside of the station.
Where Should You Stay?
Worth it: Hotel Salera- This is where every local Astigian will tell you to stay. About a 10-15 minute walk from the center of the city, it is a luxurious four star hotel with all the amenities. From gigantic and soft bath towels to International CNN, it has everything an American tourist needs to be comfortable. The best part? Outside of September, rooms can be had for around $100 a night for a double.
Not Worth It: Hotel Reale- This hotel is one of the darlings of the established guidebooks. Located right in the center of the city, about 4 doors down from the late night McDonald's, it suffers from an overabundance of noise and a severe lack of amenities. Anyone in the know will tell you to stay away from this tourist trap, which usually charges more than the Salera.
Where Should You Eat?
Ristorante Barolo- This is the easiest answer. Located right of the center square of Asti, Barolo is located underground in a cantina whose exposed foundation dates back to Roman times. Presenting an exquisite selection of traditional Astigian dishes, like spinach gnocchi and roasted duck, it also boasts perhaps the city's most impressive wine list. My recommendation? Try the pasta in meat drippings, a surprisingly delicate first dish.
Where and What Should You Buy?
Wine & Spirits: Gerbi- There is no better Italian souvenir than a fine bottle of wine or liqueur. This is especially true as Asti is famous for its wine, from the expensive and rich Barolo, which always carries a DOCG mark, to the more subtle and sweet Moscato, usually served before or after dinner. Hidden on the edge of town, Gerbi is a deceptively large liquor store offering all of the finest products from both Asti and the rest of Italy. Besides that, it also offers a fine selection of gift items, like bottled olives or porcini mushrooms.
Candy & Pasrty: Giordanino- Torrone is the favorite candy of Asti and of most of Northern Italy, a honey and hazelnut nougat with a touch of vanilla and orange. Traditionally eaten at Christmastime, it is sold in Asti throughout the cool months of fall and winter. The best place to buy some torrone ready to travel? Giordanino, the city's oldest sweet shop. Not only is their selection out of this world, but their friendly and helpful staff will pack the candy up for the long journey home.
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