|
Imagine sitting by a water garden, following the lazy movements of the fish and hearing the rhythmic splashing of a waterfall or fountain. You watch the birds and butterflies flit about as they, too, enjoy the newly created habitat, their songs, movements, and colors enhancing the peaceful mood.
Have you always longed for such a retreat, but been afraid of the commitment required to bring a water feature into your garden? Instead of picturing a large, fully landscaped pond that may seem to be a hopelessly complicated and time consuming task, think small and intimate. You can always emphasize and add features over time.
The original effort can take no more commitment than a day.
FORMAL OR INFORMAL
A formal pond is often shaped geometrically: round, square, octagonal, or rectangular. The paths and landscaping borders usually lie in straight lines. Stonework, brick, and ornaments are chosen to compliment the house. Landscape shrubs and plants normally present trimmed, neat appearances.
An informal pond is a much more popular design. Gentle curves and irregular shapes to the paths, landscaping borders, and pond are the rules. Plants can be allowed to become slightly overgrown and whimsical, fun ornaments and features can add eye-catching interest.
Look around your yard and decide the type of design that would make you most comfortable.
THE POND SITE
You’ve decided the type of pond you’d like to build. Now, where to put it. There are a number of factors that come into play: electrical access, soil type, trees, and land slope.
Close to the house is ideal because you have ready access to an electrical source. In addition, the pond, can be visible from a window. Remember to build far enough away so as not to damage the foundation.
If your soil is sandy, a sharp slope to the sides of the pond may be difficult to dig. Allow for more room to slope the sides gradually. Clay or rocky soils require extra physical effort, but there is the advantage of greater design options.
Building the pond beneath a tree may seem to be aesthetically pleasing, but the consequences can be devastating, or at the least, annoying. Large tree roots are not only hard to dig through, but they offer the possibility of a liner puncture. And fallen leaves will quickly pollute a pond and possibly kill the fish. Most pond plants require at least 4 to 5 hours of sunlight to flourish; building a pond in too much shade can create a dark dreary atmosphere for fish and plants alike.
Try to choose a fairly level area for your pond. It can be troublesome to try to level a pond on a slope. If the sides of the pond are not absolutely level, the water will appear cock-eyed and the liner will show.
LINER VS. PRE-FORMED POND
There are 3 types of pond liners generally available: Polythene is the cheapest and least durable; PVC (Polyvinylchloride) is the most often used, it’s a bit more expensive and lasts for about 12 years; Butyl is top of the line and expensive, but will last for a good 20 years. All liners are vulnerable to punctures by tree roots and rocks.
Pre-formed ponds are moderately expensive, extremely durable, easily installed, and fairly easily repaired. They are, however, limited in design.
The next step may help you decide.
LAYING OUT THE POND
The traditional method for laying out the shape of the pond is to use a garden hose or rope. Keep in mind the paths and landscaping you plan to incorporate into the overall design. Walk around the design and look at it from all angles. When you have exactly what you want, stake out the area of the pond itself.
As you plan the pond design, prepare for the type of fish you’ll want to keep. Japanese Koi get quite large and require a pond of no less than 10’ across x 2’ deep. They are prone to injury by sharp objects and do not tolerate poor water quality. Goldfish may be the best decision for a beginner, they are less fussy about water quality and need only 18” depth of water to over-winter.
LINER SIZE
Here are the calculations for sizing a flexible liner: Add twice the maximum depth to the length and then to width. Multiply. Example: a pond 2’ x 3’ with a depth of 18”. Convert feet into inches. (24+18+18) X (36+18+18) = 60” x 72” (convert back into feet before multiplying)= 5' x 6' = 30sq.ft. of liner needed.
INSTALLATION
Pre-formed ponds: Lay the pond upside down and mark an area slightly larger than the edge, about 6”. Dig out the soil. Remove all sticks or rocks from the hole. Make certain the hole is absolutely level; it’s much harder to fix later. Put in the pond and slightly fill with water to hold it in place. Backfill around the pond, tamping down as you go. Preformed ponds need good support. Fill the pond with water and add landscaping rocks around the edge.
Liner: Dig out the pond in the shape you’ve chosen remembering to add shelves for plants. Make sure it is level. Remove all sharp objects from the hole. Line the hole with a cushioning material like sand, thick layers of newspaper, or old carpet. Place the folded liner in the center of the hole and unfold outward. Do this on a sunny day and the liner will become more flexible. Begin filling the pond with water. As the liner stretches, try to smooth it out. You will have to get in the pond, so don’t wear shoes that will puncture the liner. Don’t worry about not smoothing all the creases. Line edge with decorative rock.
WATERFALLS AND FOUNTAINS
There are many ways to create a waterfall, but for the beginner the easiest is to use the extra soil and rock. Build up to a height that compliments the size of the pond. This will take some time, but keep at it. Use a garden hose to run water down your waterfall then adjust the rock until you get a pleasant sound.
If you prefer a fountain, here is a list of pump sizes with water height: 360 gph (gallons per hour) – 2 to 3 feet, 600 gph – 3 to 4 feet, 1200 gph – 5 to 6 feet. The height of the water is also dependent on the length of hose used. It’s better to get too large a pump, than too small.
For a waterfall, the strength of flow required depends on the size of pump. The weaker the pump, the thinner the flow. 600 gph to 1200 gph are a generally accepted size pump for a waterfall.
PUMPS AND FILTERS
Unless your pond is very small, under 200 gallons, you probably won’t need a filter. (Some may disagree.) After the first year the combination of fish and plants should stabilize the pond and keep it clear.
If your pond is small, you may need a small filter to attach to the pump. A filter usually consists of tough batting in a plastic bucket for the water to run through before it gets to the pump. Size of a filter depends on the pump used; a larger pump needs a larger filter.
A submersible pump is the least expensive and easiest to use. There are many different types and sizes. To determine exactly what you need, talk to a local nursery.
Pump maintenance includes cleaning the strainer and removing the pump during cold winter months. Make certain you never turn on a submersible pump unless it is under water, the transformer will burn out.
PLANTS AND FISH
There are a great variety of pond plants available for a backyard pond. The basic rule of thumb for a pond is to keep plant coverage at 60% of the surface area. This will keep the algae at a minimum. The best way to accomplish this is with a water lily. Check with a nursery to determine plant hardiness for your area. Most tropical pond plants are difficult to store in the house over winter.
The best soil to use for pond plants is a heavy loam top-soil, anything too light will leech out and pollute the pond. Do not use peat-based composts; very few pond plants will grow in peat.
Use a good slow-release fertilizer tablet specifically designed for pond plants. Most other types of fertilizer, like manure or compost, can leech into the water and promote algae growth.
Rule of thumb for goldfish: I inch of fish for I cubic foot of water. So, 36 cubic feet of water (a pond 3’x6’x2’) will hold approximately 18 2” fish.
LANDSCAPING
Dig out the area you wish to landscape around your pond. Choose shrubs and plants that will enhance the water reflection. Arrange them around the pond before you take them out of their pots. Remember that plants grow, so don’t overcrowd the area. Try to choose a few blooming perennials that will attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Bee Balm is a good example and is perennial to zone 2. Check with your local nursery to find plants that will grow in your region.
| 
