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The Burren is an area in Ireland that attracts thousands of tourists annually. However, as this article will show, The Burren is much more than a tourist attraction. Situated in County Clare in the West of Ireland it is approximately thirty miles north of Shannon and just south of Galway Bay. Derived from the Irish 'bhoireann', The Burren literally means 'a stony place'.
At first glance, this area appears haunting, barren, a moonscape fallen to Earth. It covers approximately one hundred square miles, much of it underground. The Burren 'proper' though is made up of huge, irregular slabs of carboniferous limestone interspersed with cracks, which run to several meters in depth. The slabs are called 'clints' and the cracks 'grikes' in geological terminology.
Over 360 million years ago most of Ireland was under a tropical ocean, and over time, with tectonic movements, a section of the ancient seabed (which was made up of limestone) was raised to the surface. The Burren is thus believed to be a part of this ancient seabed. With the advent of the Ice Age the limestone cracked in places and over various geological periods different vegetation and weathering had profound influences on the area.
6000 years ago, man inhabited County Clare and this resulted in forests being felled and the topsoil being eroded. The Burren is thus the result of many thousands of years of changing climates and changing circumstances.
Today, The Burren is the largest surviving area of tearstic limestone in Western Europe and has the Atlantic Ocean bordering its western boundary, Galway Bay to the north, at the southern boundary the limestone slabs are covered with shale (known locally as 'cold stone' because of its poor drainage), and, to the eastern boundary of the area the limestone gives way to meadowland. It is the eastern boundary which is the most disputed amongst locals, that is, exactly where it ends.
The area can be crudely divided into 'uplands' and 'lowlands', the uplands being the most desolate and uninhabited part of The Burren. The uplands rely heavily on the grazing practices employed by farmers in the area. The form of grazing used in this part of the world is known as 'winterage', where farmers allow their sheep and cattle to graze on the lowlands during the summer months and drive them up to the uplands in winter. This practice ensures that many plants and flowers can seed and flower on the uplands during the spring and summer months, while controlling competitive grasses from taking over the area during the winter months.
It is precisely for the abundant flora in The Burren that it has achieved international recognition. Botanists from all over the world travel to the area to research the many plant species to be found here. To say that the flora in this part of the world is unique would be a major understatement. Arctic, Alpine and exotic Mediterranean plants grow side-by-side, aided by the damp, humid conditions in places and the sea-spray in other areas.
Spring Gentian (Gentiana verna) is very abundant, as is Mountain Avens (Dryas octopetala) with its cream petals, which contrast in striking ways with the gray, lichen-covered limestone. The Dense Flowered Orchid (Neotinea maculata), a Mediterranean flower, is also found here as is Ling Heather (Calluna vulgaris); a plant that normally hates lime but still manages to thrive on the limestone pavements. In summer, Harebells (Campanula rotundifolia) and the fabulous, deep-purple flower of the Bloody Cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum) bring a vibrant burst of color to the volcanically bleak landscape.
With the wide variety of plant and flower-life here it is perhaps not surprising that the oldest working perfumery in Ireland is also here. The fragrances produced by the Burren Perfumery are unique, inspired by the nature around them and some of the names of the perfume range reflect their origins e.g. 'Frond' and 'Man of Aran'.
Zoologists are also interested in The Burren because there are many wild butterflies, mammals and birds to be spotted in and around the area. Geologists and Historians too find The Burren fascinating. Turloughs, or 'dry lakes' are found here - depressions in the limestone characterized by their ability to fill and drain with water very rapidly. Legend has it that the turloughs can 'capture' young women who then change into swans and disappear from the Earth when the water drains!
As mentioned earlier, most of The Burren is hidden from the surface - consisting of a network of caves, which have spectacular stalagmites (limestone 'cones' which appear to 'grow' from the floor) and stalactites ('cones' which 'grow' from the ceiling of the caves down). Perhaps the most famous cave in the area, and one, which is accessible to tourists and cavers alike, is Ailwee Cave. Legends say that ancient ghostly horsemen inhabit the caves. Underground streams are also plentiful in the area.
Man's presence is also apparent here, with megalithic tombs (the most famous of which is Poulnebrone Dolmen, a vortal tomb dated around 3800 BC). There are also around 60 wedge tombs; many ring forts (or 'raths' - e.g. Cathercommaun Cliff Fort), stone cashels and ecclesiastical sites. From the air networks of mound walls - remnants from ancient times, can be spotted. There are also Bronze Age cooking sites and holy wells. The wells, the folklore goes, are believed to cure bad vision.
Also in the area, or close by, are the towns of Carron, Ballyvaughan, Doolin (internationally known for traditional Irish music) and Lisdoonvarna (where unmarried men and women traditionally met at organized dances in the hope of finding a husband or a wife!). The spectacular Cliffs of Moher (over 200 meters high) are close by and the Aran Islands can be easily reached by boat. Castles are plentiful, built by ancient ruling families in County Clare (like the O'Briens, and the McNamaras - the latter built Bunratty Castle, which today is famous for its medieval banquets and maintaining the traditions of ancient craft-making).
The Burren is now a conservation area, protected by the National Trust. With more and more tourists visiting the area some sites have been put under threat. It is illegal to pick the plants and flowers here, especially near Mullaghmore, the most florally diverse part of The Burren National Park. Walks are organized by the Tourist Board and include many types of tours ranging in difficulty, topic and duration.
In summary, The Burren is much more than a tourist attraction. It is an area that is extensively studied by Botanists, Geologists and Historians who travel there annually. It is also a conservation site, an area of great haunting beauty, and a place where it is quite easy to feel completely alone in the world.
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