Mosaic tile craft: a table for two

There’s nothing more romantic than a table for two. It matters not if that table is tucked in the back of a restaurant, parked on the patio, bathed in sunlight in the middle of the garden, or smashed between another 20 look-alike tables in a crowded mall. Just the sound of the words “table for two” gets the old romance meter humming.

Imagine creating such a table, perhaps with materials that remind you of the man or woman who share your intimate space. A little determination on your part and that table can grace a nook in your garden, very soon.

Creating your own mosaic is not hard, but, in the beginning, it can be daunting. Beginners should start by making a mosaic of something on a smaller scale. Perhaps in this case, a flower vase for the table would be a good starting point.

First of all, create a sketch of your design. Even if you’re looking for a random layout, you still need to draw sketches and designs. Don’t set your project up for failure. Laying the design on paper first, is a good idea.

After you know what your design or pattern will be, decide on a color scheme and which materials you will use. Materials can be conventional ceramic tiles, pieces of glass and mirror, flat marbles, coins, favorite buttons, or beads and pieces of broken china. Ceramic tiles and flat marbles are available at any craft store or bathroom and kitchen shop. Glass and mirrors can be purchased at hardware or household department stores. Of course, beach glass or colored glass is the most popular when mosaicing, but clear glass also has its uses. Most of the other items can be found in the kitchen junk drawer or in the sewing basket. Use items that mean something to you--good feelings radiate from favorite pottery, buttons, beads, coins, or pieces of china–and will make the table invaluable to you.

If you plan to throw out your grandmother’s old china because it’s chipped and cracked, and no one will ever eat off it again, stop. It may be the perfect addition to your table. Something to remember is that the china, once cut into pieces, may not be enough. If that’s the case, use your artistic eye–which colors would enhance the colors you already have? Add solid colored one-inch tiles, or smaller, or larger, for a coordinated affect. I suggest at least three colors to whatever color scheme used.

Equipment needed from start to finish include: ceramic tile nippers, rubber gloves, long sleeves and pants, shoes, safety glasses, containers to keep clipped tiles in (edges will be sharp), and a tarp for the floor. When cutting ceramic tiles, shards will fly, it’s important that every safety measure is followed. That would include not allowing children and pets to be in the room when you are cutting or breaking pieces of tile. (When breaking ceramic tiles and old dishes and pottery, I place a very large cookie sheet on the table, cover it with burlap or newspaper, set the piece to be broken in the center and cover with another layer of burlap or newspaper. Then, when I gently strike the object with a small hammer, pieces of flying glass or pottery is less of a concern. It still can happen, so always be careful.)

Okay. Once you have your design, have chosen the color scheme, and found the perfect table, you’re ready to begin. Tables can vary from metal garden tables, to old discarded tables found at the curb in your neighbor’s trash heap. If the table has a flat surface, is wood, glass, metal, or cement, and is the right size for your project, it’s perfect for the project. Anything that is flexible, plastic, rubber, etc., cannot be used, tiles and grout will pop off. Start with the right materials and success will be acheived.

Remember, also, that mosaic is very heavy once finished.

Take your object and clean the entire mosaic surface. Wash with soap and water if need be, then thoroughly dry the piece for 24-48 hours, depending on the medium. After it has thoroughly dried, paint the surface with craft glue–one part glue, four parts water--filling all blemishes and cracks. Allow this to thoroughly dry for another 24-48 hours. (Note: some surfaces do not need this first step.)

The next step is to lay out your design and trace as much of the design on the surface as is possible. All lines will be covered with the finished product, so don’t worry about making a mistake. After drawing the design, lay out the pieces of tile, beach glass, beads, etc. Think about how thick you want the grout to be between pieces. Place the pieces close together for a thinner line of grout, farther apart for a thicker or bolder line of grout. Now is the time for rearranging, or fixing. (It doesn’t hurt to study your design for a few days–just to be sure–before you epoxy the pieces in place. Once epoxy is set, it is difficult or impossible to remove the pieces.)

Once epoxied, it’s time to mix the grout. Grout or cement are usually anywhere from white to dark gray in color, and most of the time will be darker when wet. However, colors may be added to enhance the whole design. Again, the local craft stores will have all the materials you’ll need for this project.

As you lay the grout, it’s important that all crevices are filled, and that the grout has a uniform height. I recommend doing a small six inch patch at a time. That way the project won’t get out of hand and you’ll feel more confident as you go along. If you need to take a break for whatever reason, make sure you store your grout/cement in an airtight container.

After each patch is laid, usie a wet sponge and rub away any lumps in the grout and concentrate on creating smooth edges. Rinse the sponge and wipe off any left-over surface grout. Allow to dry for at least 20 minutes before polishing with a lint-free cloth.