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Lying a bit off the usual tourist itinerary, Belem is often referred to as the historical heart and soul of Portugal.
The entire area of Belem is closely associated with the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The natural harbor made it an ideal launching point for the exploratory voyages which turned Portugal into a major economic force.
These days, though, it hardly seems possible Portugal was once a dominant world power. Her global influence has waned, but the Portuguese people remain justly proud of their sea-faring heritage and it shows. The former prosperity has been transformed into a more subtle, enduring quality.
In 1755, Lisbon and the surrounding region including the Belem area, suffered through a devastating earthquake. As fate would have it, much of Belem was spared. Luckily, the primary historical points of interest were not toppled into dust.
One of Belem's most visited sites is the carriage museum. Considered one of the finest collections of it's kind in the world, the collection is housed in a building originally used as a riding school for the royal family. The building itself is notable for it's ornate painted ceiling and Doric columns.
Aristocratic coaches were more than just a comfortable means of transport, they were part of the royal propaganda machine. All the noble houses worked to out-do each other in ostentation. Goldsmiths, gilders, upholsterers and dozens of craftsmen were employed to create these masterpieces on wheels.
Exuberance was the order of the day. Gilded baroque figures of horses and semi-nude women cling between the wheels. Boxes are decorated with gilded woodcarvings that frame pointed festoons, small cherubs or allegorical figures. Princely virtues such as truth, strength and justice are represented with paintings of ancient Gods and Goddesses. The seats and interiors are done in bold colors of velvet with intricate embroidery. Crimson and gold appear the most popular colors. They are Cinderella's carriage come to life, times twenty.
Also on display are sedan chairs, litters and various riding accessories.
An easy walk from the carriage museum is the Jeronimos Monastery. Because the finances to build Jeronimos came from spice trade profits, the structure is said to be "built of pepper."
Portions of the white limestone are covered with Manueline decorations, a 16th-century architectural style inspired by Portugal's maritime prowess. Manueline is a late Gothic style with unique adornments which show a renaissance influence, named for King Manuel I. On closer inspection, Manueline also shows both Moorish and Indian characteristics. Despite the fact four architects worked on the Monastery, it manages to present an image of graceful cohesion.
An outstanding example of Manueline style is the southern doorway of the Monastery, completed in 1502. The design encompasses an outrageous array of pinnacles, spires and niches containing sculpture. Sea shells and coral shapes are intertwined, adding to the puzzle. Like a paisley print from the sixties, the intricacies capture and hold the eye.
Inside are the tombs of Portugal's most famous native sons, Vasco de Gama and Luis de Camoes. De Gama left his mark by sailing the high seas and discovering the sea route to India. Camoes is known for his literary efforts. Visitors still place fresh flowers on the tombs daily.
Another example of Manueline design is the Tower of Belem. The tower is prominent since it's the closest thing Portugal has to a national monument. On Sunday afternoons, the local people enjoy picnics and children's games on the spacious lawn in front of the tower. Plenty of transistor radios are also in evidence, since the men wouldn't dream of missing the professional soccer games.
In centuries past, sailors returning home eagerly scanned the horizons for the first glimpse of the tower. It became their welcoming beacon after months or even years away from their loved ones. On an upper terrace, the Virgin of Safe Travels looks out toward the Tagus River and open sea. The tower has served as a fortress, watch-tower and prison, though today it has a more tranquil existence as a tourist site and fitting reminder of the age of discovery.
A more modern day tribute to the explorers was erected in 1960. The structure is patterned after the prow of a ship. Called the Monument to the Discoveries, this testimonial is peopled with those famous and not-so-famous. Heading up the assembly is Prince Henry the Navigator, gazing toward the ever compelling horizon. Fittingly, he holds a small ship in his hands. Behind him are King Manuel and Camoes the poet. Following are anonymous but significant soldiers, sailors, priests and weeping women. It makes a telling statement about the cross section of individuals who made the ultimate sacrifice in the name of exploration.
The monument sits on the edge of the Tagus River, within sight of the Tower of Belem. Visitors can go inside and to the top by elevator for a fine view of the city. From that vantage point, you can see a decorative map situated in the pavement below.
Belem is not a household name. In fact, Lisbon and the surrounding area are often over-looked by travelers in Europe. At best, it gets tacked onto a trip at the beginning or ending of a journey to Spain. That's really too bad. There are still distant lands to be conquered by modern day explorers like you and me. Why not Lisbon and Belem?
Because of its southern location, the area is well-suited for sightseeing in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. April and October temperatures are generally sunny and 70 degrees.
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