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Drywall is a term used to describe paperbound panels of gypsum or SHEETROCK (R). This material can be purchased from any building supply store and comes in a wide variety of thickness. It is used in all phases of building construction, but its’ primary use is in wall and ceiling construction. Chances are very good that your own home has either Sheetrock walls and ceilings.
There are several factors that make Sheetrock an attractive alternative to the more expensive wood paneling. Due to its thickness, Sheetrock insulates very well. It's also relatively inexpensive, compared to paneling and other materials. Perhaps most importantly, it cuts easily and readily accepts most paints.
Sheetrock, however, does have some drawbacks. It's not especially durable and is subject to cracks from even moderate pressure. It also doesn't handle moisture very well and great care must exercised when installing it.
Why then, is it so widely used in the construction trade? Because you can do something with Sheetrock that can't be duplicated with conventional paneling. You can repair it, leaving very little evidence that it was ever damaged!
Common Types of Damage
As previously stated, Sheetrock is "pressed gypsum" covered in a heavy paper exterior. High humidity and direct moisture will usually result in tears or “rotting” of the paper. Also, the gypsum has a tendency to swell when subjected to water, so it’s a great idea to apply a commercial priming sealant such as Killz, or a high quality grade of paint to the Sheetrock upon installation.
Another common type of damages are holes. Gypsum is very soft and the end of a mop handle or a child’s shoe can easily penetrate it. The third type of damage is a simple crack. As you attempt your repairs, you’ll see that each of the three types of damage require a different approach.
Choosing the right tools for the job
There are many ways to patch or replace damaged Sheetrock. But they all require the same tools. Before you begin your repair work, make sure you have the following items on hand:
* Utility knife- A must. Also commonly called the “box knife,” this may be the handiest all-purpose tools ever invented .
* 6” flat-bladed trowel- Looks more like an ice scrapper than a “knife.” Another “must.” I usually try to keep both a 2” and a 4” putty knife in my tool box. You need them when we start “feathering the mud.”
* hand trowel- 6” or 9” blade
* joint compound- also referred to as “Sheetrock mud.” This material comes in a variety of sizes, ranging from small quart containers to 5 gallon tubs. This is the material that you’ll use to effect the repair.
* joint tape- available in both paper and fiberglass, this material will seal any seams and be covered by the joint compound.
* sandpaper- 200 and 400 grit
* tack cloth- a commercial cloth used to pick up dust and grit, allowing the tape and mud to adhere to the surface being repaired.
* tape measure- Usually, a 6’ tape measure is sufficient, unless you’re working with entire panels.
* small hammer
* Sheetrock nails
Repairing the crack
At first glance it would seem that this type of damage is the easiest to repair. That’s not always true. The first thing is to determine if the crack can be accessed from the other side of the panel. In closets and some walls this is possible. If you can, try to gently push the Sheetrock back into its original form. Use the tack cloth to remove Sheetrock dust from the service. If the wall is dirty or grimy, use a mild detergent and a damp cloth to clean the service. Make sure the wall is completely dry before proceeding.
Next, prepare the joint compound. In small cracks, it’s usually best to use the mud straight from the container. It’s a bit “thick” fill small cracks like putty. With “hairline” cracks, you won’t need the joint tape. Simply take a small bit of the compound onto the edge of the 2” or 4” putty knife and spread it smoothly along the seam of the crack. Allow 2 hours to dry, then lightly sand with the 400 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust with the tack cloth and you’re ready to paint!
Repairing large cracks
With larger cracks in which a gap is present, you’ll need to take a slightly different approach. Depending on the size of the gap, it may be necessary to use joint tape. Paper tape is generally better suited for cracks. Prepare the crack in the same fashion as above, and spread a light coat of the joint compound along the crack. If the joint compound is too thick to spread evenly, add a very small amount of water and stir. Then, take a length of the tape and “bed” it on top of the compound, along the length of the crack. use the utility knife to trim the ends of the tape.
Then, taking the widest trowel, apply another coat of the compound over the top of the tape. Using light even strokes, “feather” the compound along the length of the tape. Take care not to press too hard, as you’ll remove the compound from the tape. You need to leave a light film of the compound over the tape. Then allow it dry. Now you can sand any rough spots.
Depending on the size of the crack, you may want to apply a primer before painting.
Repairing the hole.
Small holes can be plugged. Stuffing the hole with wadded newspaper works well, in most cases. If you can reach the hole from the backside of the panel, apply a patch of the fiberglass joint tape, to provide a “backing” for your plug material. Fiberglass tape has a light adhesive and will stick well to the drywall, provided the surface is clean and dry. If you can’t access the rear of the hole, just stuff the wadded paper directly into the hole. Then, carefully apply a generous portion of the joint compound directly into the hole, on top of the paper. Allow this to dry completely.
Joint compound “shrinks” as it dries and may require additional applications to fill the hole. Once the hole is filled and dried, sand it first with the 200 grit sandpaper, then “finish” it with a light sanding with the 400 grit paper. Then, prime and paint.
Repairing large holes
Large holes usually prove too difficult to patch. Thus, the damaged portion of the wall must be replaced. You’ll need to purchase a panel of Sheetrock from the building supply store.
First, locate the nearest wall studs on either side of the hole. Then, using your utility knife, cut a square out of the damaged section of the wall. Take your time and cut smoothly and as straight as possible. Be sure to make your vertical cuts along the centers of the wall studs so you’ll have something to nail the replacement section onto. Having cut out the damaged section, carefully measure the hole and cut an exact replacement section from your new panel. Fit it into the hole and carefully nail it into place. Wipe away the dust with the tack cloth, then spread a thin layer of the compound along the seams. Then, “bed’ the joint tape along the seams, and apply another coat over the tape. Allow it to dry, then sand, prime and paint.
You can save a great deal of money in repair costs, if you follow these steps and take your time.
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