How to set up an aquarium

A tropical aquarium is not only beautiful to look at, it is also a great stress reliever. Many hobbyists are drawn to aquarium keeping because it is relaxing and relatively easy to do. You may have shied away from running a full sized fish tank in the past because it looked complicated, but I assure you that with a little knowledge, you can be successful. In this article I will tell you the basics of what you need to start up an aquarium and what fish are the easiest to care for. Listed below are the nescessary items for maintaining a healthy system.

Tank-The first thing to consider when starting out, is what size aquarium to purchase. A ten or twenty gallon tank is a popular choice for novices because it is easy to run and can hold a reasonable amount of fish. If buying a used tank, you will want to take it outside and fill it with water before hand, to check for leaks. A new tank should not leak and if it does it should be returned to the pet store as it should be under warranty.

Filters-There are several different types of filters on the market and their purpose is to keep the water clean by filtering the waste material. What type of filter you decide to run depends on how you wish to service it.

Box filters-These types of filters are run with an air hose that pushes the water through the filter where it passes through charcoal and a fiber floss, depositing the waste matter on the floss. Every few weeks you will be required to replace the floss and every 4-8 weeks you will replace the charcoal. This requires you to lift the filter out of the tank, which will temporarily disrupt the fish. If you don’t wish to fuss with an internal filter, you can purchase a box filter that hangs outside the tank. This filter works with a pump that sucks the soiled water up a tube where it flows through the floss and charcoal and re-circulates back into the tank in a waterfall fashion. This filter has its advantages because you don’t have to disturb the fish to service it.

Undergravel filters- This filtering system consists of a plastic plate that is inserted along the bottom of the tank and then covered over with a heavy layer of gravel. It is to be used with an electric pump that is attached to two air hoses that push air down the two tubes located at either side of the filter. This causes the waste matter to be pulled down into the gravel where it is broken down naturally and then siphoned out by you, manual. The advantage of this type of filter is that it eliminates excess hardware and gives your tank a more natural look.

Canister filters- These filters can be internal or external and are smart looking. They work by sucking water in through an air hose, where it passes through the filtering system and is pushed out, back into the tank in a jet stream. They are easy to clean and provide the fish with a little turbidity in the water for stimulation.

Whatever type of filter you choose, you will still be required to do a partial water change once every week or two. This is done by using a siphoning tube and sucking up about 1/3 of the soiled water at the bottom of the tank. Place the end of the siphoning tube a little ways into the gravel and you will lift out a good percentage of the waste material that the filter isn’t able to. Be sure and move the end of the tube to several different locations in the tank when cleaning up the gravel. If you are unsure how this is done, ask an employee of the pet store to demonstrate for you.

Heaters- When keeping tropical fish, (with the exception of goldfish) you will need to purchase a heater. It really pays off to buy a good quality heater the first time out, as you will not want to be replacing a cheap heater several months later, possibly risking the life of your fish if it should quit working when you are not around to replace it. Heaters are submersible and come with an adjustable heat control. Place your heater near the intake of the filter so the heat will be circulated evenly through-out the tank. Most tropical fish like their water between 75 F and 78 F . Most factories set the control at 75 F so you will need to run your heater alone in the tank for several hours first and then check the temperature using an aquarium thermometer. Adjust a little at a time until the temperature is where you want it.

Lighting- Most fish tanks are sold with a hood and light as part of the package. You can choose to run an incandescent or florescent light. If running an incandescent light on a ten gallon tank you may not need to have a heater as the light will give off a certain amount of heat. Always check your thermometer and regulate the heat before placing any fish in the tank.

Water-The right water conditions will mean the difference between life and death to your fish. Before you put the fish into the water you must make sure it is free from chlorine. To do this you can either let the water sit for several days or you can purchase some liquid drops that automatically remove the chlorine from the water. It is essential that you have a pH testing kit. This will tell you if the water is either acidic, alkaline or neutral. The pH is on a scale that goes from pH 0 (strongest in acidity) to pH 14 (strongest in alkalinity), with 7 being neutral, (neither acidic nor alkaline) Practically all fish will prefer their water between pH 6.6 and 7.5. You will need to keep on hand the solution for adjusting the pH, either up or down. Check the pH once every few weeks or when you notice the fishes colors fading, clamped fins or listless behavior.

Set up- You will need to set up and run your aquarium for several days before you introduce any fish to the environment. First place your fish tank on a stable base or stand. Install the undergravel filter (if using one) and then place the pre-washed, aquarium safe gravel on the bottom. Make sure the undergravel filter is well covered or if you are not using one then a layer of about one inch of gravel is adequate. Next, you are ready to add your de-chlorinated water. It is best to have the help of a friend who can place their hands in the tank, to provide a break on which to pour the water so you don’t uncover the filter. When the tank is full you can then install the filter, heater and thermometer. Run the heater and filter a few days before the introduction of fish so you can have the temperature set and the water pure.

Plants and decor- When using rocks, twigs, logs, structures and plants you must ensure that they are aquarium safe. For best results use only items purchased in the pet store, that way you can be sure they don’t contain any harmful minerals that may kill your fish. When using live plants, be sure and purchase from a pet store as these will be guaranteed to be nonpoisonous and free from parasites. You can set up rocks, structures, logs, and plastic plants in an unestablished tank, but leave the insertion of live plants until a few weeks after the fish have lived in the tank as the plants will need to use the waste material for food.

Fish- Once your tank has been running for a few days you will be ready to choose your fish. Most tropical fish can live peaceably together if you choose ones that belong to the same family. Tetras can live together in peace so long as you choose ones that are the same size. If you mix adults with babies, then the babies will most likely end up as food for a bigger fish. Mollies, Platties, Swordtails, and Guppies make good tank mates as they all like brackish (slightly salty) water. When keeping these fish add a few teaspoons of un-iodized salt to the water. Angel fish, Dwarf Gouramis and Catfish are also gentle enough for the community tank and will grow to the size of the tank. If choosing any of the Barb family, make sure you get at least five of a kind since they can become aggressive if not able to school with their own kind. Cichlids do not make good community fish as they are quite aggressive and goldfish are best kept to themselves as they like their water cold and alkaline.

A great addition to any tank is an algae eater. They keep to themselves and eat the algae off the plants and side of the tank thereby helping you to keep the tank clean, however don’t add one until the tank has been established with fish for at least one month.

When adding fish to your tank, the general rule to avoid overcrowding is one fish needs three inches of space. Start slow with the fish, initially placing 3 or 4 in the tank for the first week then adding 4 every week until your tank is complete. You may need to adjust the pH after each new addition because more waste matter will affect the pH. When adding fish, float the unopened bag in the tank for about ten minutes before releasing the fish. This will allow the temperature of the water inside the bag to synchronize with the tank water. When you open the bag let some of the tank water into the bag and gently tilt it back and forth, then slowly let the fish flow out of the bag and into the tank.

Aquarium keeping is a hobby with many rewards. Keeping fish has been proven to lower stress, reduce blood pressure, ease depression and elevate your mood. Anyone can keep fish, from children to the elderly and because they need so little attention, you are able to go on holidays and not need to have a pet sitter. There are vacation feeders on the market that enable the fish to be fed on a time release system. Most rental apartments and houses will allow fish tanks even under the strictest “no pets” policy, which is why fish keeping is such a popular hobby.