Travel to Maastricht, Holland

Maastricht is an unusual, almost "unDutch" city and it's location is the primary reason. It rests in a finger of land in the southeast of Holland, almost totally surrounded by Belgium and Germany. There's so much traveling from country to country in those parts. The local visitors bureau keeps lists of theater schedules for cities such as Brussels, Cologne and Dusseldorf.

Location too, has had a major impact on Maastricht's history. Its name comes from the Latin "Mosae Trajectum" (or where the river Maas is crossed) and the Romans had a full-scale urban center here complete with baths, temples and barracks for soldiers. In addition, illustrious names are associated with Maastricht. Charlemagne heard mass at the church of St. Servatius; St. Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade there in 1145 and d'Artagnan of "The Three Musketeers" fame ended his days on the city's ramparts.

The church of St. Servatius is on the itinerary for most travelers and with good reason. The church has seen century after century pass. Wars, strife, weather and humankind haven't managed to destroy it yet.

Maastricht is considered the oldest fortified city in Holland, with many city gates and ramparts still standing. In fact, a number of the streets have changed very little since the 16th century. Authorities have identified nearly 1400 historic monuments within the walls. Dozens of historic old buildings have been restored, some as private homes, stores and restaurants.

When they wanted to build something, they simply carved great blocks of stone from the mountain, which in turn created vast caves. As early as 50 AD the Roman historian Pliny was describing these unusual caverns. Through the years they've been an attraction for visitors such as Sir Walter Scott, Voltaire, and Napoleon, all of whom couldn't resist carving their initials in the walls. It just proves human nature changes very little!

At other times battles have been fought at the caves and during World War II, the 200 miles of tunnels were turned into a refuge. Art treasures such as Rembrandt's "Night Watch" were stored there for safekeeping. Like the plot of an espionage story, pilots and escaped prisoners were hidden in the tunnels. Ever a practical people, the Dutch set up a bakery, hospital, library and church within the cool walls, in case the entire population might have to retreat inside the hill.

You can take a guided tour of the tunnels to hear some of it's long and amazing history. Along the route, your guide will point out a number of drawings and signatures.

Because of Maastricht curious location, it makes an ideal homebase for those who want to see something of the region. We walked around an especially placed stone beacon, which now marks the spot where three countries meet. Most everyone steps around this marker so they can say were in three different counties in under ten seconds...amusing even in the rain.

Our ramblings also took us to the ancient roman baths and museum at Heerlen. Unlike some Roman ruins, these are nicely enclosed and have a central walkway suspended over the ruins themselves. Their discovery is an interesting story unto itself.

Back in 1940, area officials decided all the vacant lots needed to be converted into gardens, because of the war. This particular lot held much more than they realized. As often happens, a farmer attempting to plow the area, found a Roman column, which quickly led to more extensive finds.

Today visitors mainly see the Roman building foundations which outline each section of the baths. A recorded presentation talks you through the typical visit of an average citizen who utilizes the baths. Informative and entertaining at the same time, you learn the Romans were very fond of their baths, which were as more social gatherings than anything else. A small museum is housed in the back of the building.

Finally, the Netherlands American Cemetery, roughly six miles from Maastricht, is a moving experience and should be on everyone's must-see list. The locals, at least the older ones, still talk about the Americans who liberated them during World War II. The site occupies 65.5 acres of gently rolling farmland and was liberated on September 13, 1944 by troops of the US 30th Infantry Division, a part of the US First Army. It was officially established as a battlefield cemetery in November of 1944.

But, at least 8302 young men died in the effort and were left behind to be buried here. They came from every state and the District of Columbia, with others mixed in from England, Canada and Mexico. A total of 106 are unknown individuals.

I searched for a few minutes, in the light rain, before finding a memorial for a serviceman which read "Indiana" the place he and I call home. He never had the good fortune to return to his Midwest home and loved ones. At least it was a tranquil place and the only sounds to be heard were raindrops. Scanning the pastoral landscape, I decided it wasn't so different from rural Indiana and that was reassuring.

There are many fine hotels in and around Maastricht, running the gamut from inexpensive to top-of-the-line. Across from the main train station is the Grand Hotel de l'Empereur, part of the Best Western chain, if your budget allows. They have all the amenities you could want, including internet access, a restaurant and much more.