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For the truly adventurous traveler, the little known West African country of Mali is not to be missed. Camel treks through fabled Timbuktu and hikes in the Bangiagara escarpment offer glimpses into an Africa few ever see. But whether you are looking to spend a night camping in the Sahara or are content to shop the colorful markets of the bustling capital, travelers should know a few basic travel tips to ensure a more pleasant stay.
Depending on your linguistic skills, communication can pose a problem for non-French speakers. If you plan on arranging a pre-paid Land Rover tour of the country, Malian guides with a good command of the English language are available. For those wishing to deviate from the beaten path, however, French is the lingua franca in the large cities, and then only among your educated officials and large shop owners. If you are itching to wander the back streets to find that special hand-hewn mask or ceremonial rug, expect to find the shop keepers speaking pidgin French, or most likely the local African language – Bambara. Once you leave the cities and trek through any small village, even your basic Bambara could be lost as the tiniest villages speak only their own local dialects. Luckily, the Malians are used to language difficulties even among themselves so most are extremely patience and understanding as you thumb through your guidebook.
As a tourist (and your shorts and cameras will advertise you as such), you can expect a lot of attention, especially from young children. Even if the Land Rover drive to Bangiagara kept you relatively insulated, the minute you walk the streets you’ll hear the familiar cry of ‘Tubaboo’ from the pack of youngsters on your heels. ‘Tubaboo’ is the term used by Malians to denote strangers and is never meant to be derogatory. The cry is typically followed by the phrase ‘Donne-moi un cadeau’, which is a request for candy, baubles, or simply money. Granting the requests of these children is generally frowned upon, and constant handouts might deplete your cash supply in a hurry. Watch out for the young boys who offer their services as city guides. They are quick to take your cash then leave you lost in the labyrinth of the village market.
Bargaining probably causes the most angst for travelers accustomed to the fixed pricing practices of the West. If you are set on purchasing any souvenirs, you must expect to bargain. Buying at the first price will not only mark you as a fool, but also set a horrible precedent for future tourists. Any guide book will educate you on the finer points of successful bargaining, but the most important factor to remember is not to take any money exchange in Mali too personally. As a tourist, Malians know that you can afford the elevated prices, and even earnest bargaining on your part might not reduce your price to a local level. Instead of becoming angry, though, think of the sale from the Malian’s point of view. What you spent to get to Mali could probably feed the vendor’s family for a good year. In a country where many don’t know where the next meal is coming from, taking advantage of every opportunity is a means of survival.
Patience is always necessary when traveling, but in Mali it is absolutely essential. If you are traveling on a shoestring and opt for public transportation, it is best not to be in a rush. The timetables at the local bus stop might state the departure time as 9AM, but chances are you won’t roll out of the station until close to noon. Bus operators make sure the bus is fully packed before departing and will wait an extra hour to fill those last seats. Once en route, you can expect plenty more delays. Flat tires, busted engines, and bribery at the local gendarme stops are all too frequent. Although professional travel companies aim to keep their Land Rovers in top condition, these too can succumb to the rigors of the harsh Malian climate. When traveling the lonely route up north from Bamako, villages become more remote once outside the city. If the bus breaks down, the driver might have to jog several miles to find a spare tire – cell phones and motor assistance are unheard of here. But approaching vehicle mishaps with the right attitude can prevent your trip from being a disaster. Malians are always chatty and will love to discuss your travels in their country even if you can only communicate in sign language. They might even ask you to share what little food they have and this should be accepted with utmost grace for it is quite the compliment.
What Mali might lack in physical beauty (no dense rain forests or safaris here) she makes up for in the hospitality of her people. So, as you set off to hire the pirogue for a float down the Niger, approach the haggling, ‘cadeau’ calls, and language mishaps much as the natives do – with a smile and a shrug. Your patience will be rewarded when your delays provide you the opportunity to explore Mali’s best asset – her people.
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