Italian wine guide

The Italians have been producing wine for thousands of years, and they don’t take it lightly. When Italy’s reputation for fine wines began to suffer after World War II, the Italian government created a system for regulating the wines being produced. In 1963, Italy established the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) to regulate its wine industry. The DOC began classifying Italian wines by region, with strict guidelines regarding the characteristics of each recognized type of wine, such as grape varieties, production methods, quantities produced, acidity and alcohol levels. Today, all Italian wines fall under one of four classifications:

Vino da Tavola (VDT), or “table wine” is wine that has not met any of the DOC guidelines for wine production. While this category includes many of Italy’s worst wines, it also includes some of its best. Some Italian vintners have grown bored with the traditional grapes and methods authorized by the DOC and have branched out to create artisanal wines that are often more expensive than regulated wines.

In 1980, the DOC added a new classification to set the best Italian wines apart from the rest. Wines bearing the Denominzaione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) mark have been recognized as being of the highest quality that Italy has to offer. There are only about 30 recognized DOCG wine varieties, each meeting the DOC guidelines with even stricter enforcement of production laws.

In 1992, the DOC tried to stem criticism of its strict laws by creating the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification. Unlike wines in the VDT category, IGT wines must list which region they come from, but they do not have to meet any other DOC standards. While VDT wines are often labeled simply as “rosso” or “bianco” (red or white), IGT wines often list the grape varieties used and the year they were produced.

Italian wines are classified by region, and wines are named after small geographic areas within each region, rather than by the type of grape the wine is made of. Therefore, most Italian wines are made from a blend of grape varieties that are native to the area where they are grown.

In northwest Italy, the Piedmont region produces a variety of well-known wines. Primarily, this region is home to Nebbiolo, Barber, and Dolcetto grape varieties. Popular wines from the Piedmont region are Barolo, made from the Nebbiolo grape, and Asti, a sparkling white wine made from Muscat grapes.

The Veneto region, in northeast Italy, produces more types of wines than any other region. More than 80 grape varieties are authorized by the DOC to be grown in the Veneto region. Valpolicella, usually made from Corvina grapes, is one of the more popular wines from this area. Prosecco (made primarily from the Prosecco grape variety) is Italy’s most popular sparkling white wine.

Tuscany, in central Italy, is known for its Sangiovese grapes. The most popular wine in Tuscany is Chianti, known around the world for its easily identifiable straw-wrapped bottle. Montepulciano is another well-known Tuscan wine. Chianti and Montepulciano are both made primarily from Sangiovese grapes. However, Tuscany has become a hot-bed of experimental wines. Called “Super-Tuscans,” these wines blend native Tuscan grapes with French varieties, producing wines that are often considered better than the DOC wines (and their price tags show it).

Sicily, in southern Italy, is Italy’s largest wine producing region. The area’s signature wine is Marsala, made from Grillo, Catarrato or Inzolia grapes. Marsala was long considered just a cooking wine, but has recently become more popular as a dessert wine or aperitif, like port or sherry.

Another good wine-producing region in Southern Italy is Apulia. Begroamaro, Malvasia, and Primitivo are among the grapes native to this area. One of the more popular wines in Apulia is Castel Del Monte. Castel Del Monte red wines are generally made from Uva di Troia grapes; the white variety is made from Pampanuto grapes, and the Rosé variety from Bombino Nero grapes.

With thousands of varieties of wines produced, and only a fraction categorized by the DOC guidelines, getting a handle on Italian wines can be troublesome. While choosing a DOCG wine does not always guarantee a great wine, they are a good bet for anyone unfamiliar with different wines and their vintages. Try to choose white wines to go with lighter foods such as poultry or fish, and red wines to go with bolder-flavored red meats. Check websites and other wine publications for lists of good vintages and vineyards.