A Guide To Collecting Swords: Preservation, Buying And Other Tips

The age of chivalery, duelling and honor may seem like a thing of the past. But to many people sword collecting is a tangable connection to a lost part of many world cultures.

Swords are a powerful connection to our past. Imagine the courage to stand face to face with your adversary holding a superbly crafted cutting edge and defending against the same from your foe. No guns, no bow and arrow; just skill verses skill in a battle to the end, looking your enemy in the eye.

It is this potent image that drives collectors to seek a particular sword for display or practice. The type of sword that appeals to you is a very individual one. Do you want a strong and balanced sword such as a Japanese katana that you can develop your martial arts with? Maybe a hard, heavy Celtic sword capable of blocking your opponents blows while delivering powerful counter-strikes appeals to you? Or are you looking for a piece of art, to adorn your wall or mantle? Whatever your desire, there are many swords available for collecting, but you need to learn a few basics first.

Whether you decide on a Japanese katana or a European crusader sword you need to pay attention to what steel the smith uses. Stainless steel is too brittle for combat and only appropriate for decorative or display purposes. The advantage stainless steel has is that it retains its shine and requires little care or maintenance. For true swords that can be used for stage fighting, sparring or (god forbid) combat, make sure the smith uses high quality steel.

Here is a brief list of common steel types used in most modern and reproduction swords.

Japanese/Traditional Steel contains iron, carbon, silicon and trace elements. It combines strength and flexibility to provide superior steel for Asian style swords. Japanese steel can be very expensive but its quality is of the highest caliber. Beware of cheap imitators from Malaysia and the Philippines--this steel can be very good but the poor attention given during the heat treating process can yield poor quality swords.

AISI/American 1050 or 1070 is a type of carbon steel that contains iron, manganese and carbon. American 1050 and 1070 steel is strong enough to make a good sword while avoiding the brittle nature of some other types of carbon steel.



AISI/American 5160 is low chromium alloy steel that is very hard. Although very good for heavy European swords, 5160 is not flexible enough for Japanese katanas.

High Carbon Steel is the most common steel used in swords today. It is found in virtually every sword sold at renaissance fairs, and contemporary sword catalogs. High carbon steel is inexpensive and easily available; however, regular care is essential and negligence will result in oxidization or rusting.

Your first sword should be a reasonably priced high carbon sword. A decent quality katana can be purchased for around $300. A European or Celtic sword can be found for approximately $200. These swords can withstand the inevitable striking against objects that you will be tempted to put your first sword through. Please note that Japanese swords were not meant to strike blade on blade, it simply was not part of the fighting style. However, the European crusader swords can handle most blade on blade strikes.

If you choose to purchase a high-end quality Japanese sword look for papers from a major sword conservation organization (NTHK or NBTHK). All swordmakers in Japan register their swords with one of these regulating organizations.

Once you have your sword you need to take care of it. Your biggest enemy in preserving your sword is oxidizing or rusting. The first essential rule is to never touch the blade with your hands. The oil from your fingers will make the steel rust almost immediately. The next rule is to never use sandpaper, emery cloth or steel wool on the blade because you may damage the steel.

Remove the old oil from the blade with a soft flannel or other soft fabric. Be careful not to scratch the blade with debris that may picked up from inside the scabbard. Replace the oil with some new clean oil. Clove oil is the best but mineral oil is acceptable. In a pinch you can use 3 in 1 oil or WD-40 but replace it with better oil as soon as possible. Apply the oil with a new clean flannel, rubbing from the hilt to the tip of the blade. Oil should also be applied to all other metal parts of the sword including the crossbar and pommel.

Next, make sure the scabbard is clean and dry. Scabbards can be made of anything from leather to wood, so use an appropriate leather conditioner or wood preserver. The important thing to remember is to make sure there is no debris or moisture inside the scabbard.

You may not have to call upon your sword to defend your honor but treat it like you could. Be respectful of the smith that forged the steel by practicing good maintenance. And, most importantly, hold the sword and feel the sense of history coursing through the blade and connect you to a time of chivalry and courage.

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