Air leaks around windows can let in cold and heat so making sure your windows are properly caulked is important. Learn how to do it yourself with these tips, instructions and list of tools and materials.
Caulking gun
Screwdriver (flat edge)
Putty knife
Utility knife
Cleaning solvent
Rags
Step ladder or extension ladder
Before you apply caulking compounds you must have a clean working surface. If the area you are applying the compound to is not clean the joint will not last. Be sure to clean away all old caulk, loose paint, and dirt from the area you are going to caulk. Once the area is clean dry it thoroughly before applying the compound.
If you have never used a caulking gun before a little practice drawing a bead would be helpful. You can do this by taking a couple pieces of wood and laying one on the other with an overlap. Secure the two pieces with a nail before beginning your practice. Don't worry if it's a little messy to begin with. The important thing is to make sure your bead overlaps both sides which will give you a tight seal. Some times you might need a wide bead other times a narrow bead. To start out you will cut off about 1/2 inch of the cartridge tip on a 45 degree angle. The narrower the tip opening the narrower your bead of caulk will be. Once you have the tip cut take a long nail and puncture the seal. You can always use the nail later to plug the opening after you are through caulking that is if you did not use the entire tube.
Now it's time to practice. Make sure the long end of the cut angel faces up so you are applying the bead right on the surface to be caulked. Always give the gun a squeeze of the trigger before starting to get the flow going. You will turn the release lever at the handle end when you want the flow to stop. Just releasing the trigger will not stop the flow. Slowly squeeze the trigger while holding the tip firmly against your practice boards and pull the gun towards you slowly keeping the tip right in the joint. Try not to stop and start. You will have to squeeze the trigger more than once to make your bead but continue to slowly pull as you squeeze the trigger. If you want you can then moisten your finger and gently smooth the bead or you may just leave it. Now it is time to tackle your windows.
Be sure to check all windows you will be caulking to see how big the gaps are so you will have proper fillers with you if any are needed. Some joints will be wider than others and filler will be needed so you do not use a whole tube up on just one seam. Strips of wood, insulation, and even strips of rags can work as filler.
It is always best to figure you will need a little over ½ a tube of caulk per window. There are also many types of caulking compounds available. Following is a list of some:
Butyl Rubber - This caulk will last eight to ten years. Shrinks a little and is best used in areas of less than ¼ inch gaps. Most all caulks are best used in joints of under ¼ inch.
Silicone Rubber - This caulk can last from fifteen to forty years depending upon the application and elements. It is not supposed to have any shrinkage and adheres very well to all clean surfaces. It usually comes in a variety of colors and also a clear because paint does not adhere to it.
Latex Caulk - This caulk lasts from three to nine years. It can be cleaned up with water and used for the same applications as the rubber caulks and can be painted and available in colors. This type of caulk can also show age and dirt easily.
Acrylic Latex Silicone - This type of caulk lasts between twelve to twenty years. It is a little easier to apply then the other rubber based caulks and some can be painted some cannot.
Acrylic Caulk - This type will last from seven to ten years. It is easily cleaned up with water and available in many colors.
Caulking Cord - This type of compound is generally used only as a temporary application. It will not last more than one to two years. It generally comes in a roll and it is pushed into place in the joint.
