With today’s fashion focus on vintage inspired jewelry, this is a great time to look into starting a collection of real vintage pieces. And there is no more fascinating place to start, than with lockets. These little pieces of history provide us with a glimpse into times past, are a lot of fun to wear, and are available in a price range that can accommodate any budget. When thinking of lockets, many of us picture the ones our mothers may have worn, with a treasured family photo or two inside. But the fashion of wearing a locket actually predates the invention of photography in 1839. Early lockets were made to protect treasured keepsakes like a lock of hair from a loved one (thus the name locket), or to hold miniature painted portraits.
As photography became more common, so did lockets holding photos. By the Victorian era, lockets were definitely a fashion trend. From plain to fancy, simple gold with a monogram on the back, to heavily filigreed with intricate frames that folded out to hold four or more photos, everyone who could afford one had a locket. One of the fun aspects of collecting vintage lockets is looking at the photos that can often be found nestled inside, but the inclusion or absence of photos does not affect its current value. Lockets had a another surge in popularity during World War II, when women left at home wore photos of their boyfriends, husbands, or brothers who were far away and fighting.
Prices for vintage and antique lockets vary from the $30 to $50 range for a plain piece in good condition, to several thousand dollars for an early locket featuring excellent design and materials. As with any other collectible: it is important to buy only pieces that you love (and therefore will be happy with even if their value doesn’t go up over time), and to buy only items in excellent condition. Areas to check for damage include: hinges (make sure they are working, and not loose), chain clasp (if not perfect you may want to consider having a safety catch added), finish (look for scratches or dents), and the interior of the locket. Check inside to make sure the bezel is intact (the bezel is a small ring made to fit inside the locket and hold the photo in place), and the glass (if there is supposed to be any, not all lockets had glass inserts) isn’t cracked or cloudy.
Lockets were made in a variety of metals – gold in varying karat weights, sterling or coin silver, and base metals. Most antiques dealers or jewelers will be able to tell you the type of metal your locket is made of. Not all gold or silver was marked as such, but there are simple tests that can be done to ascertain the locket’s metal make-up. When investing in an expensive locket, it is a good idea to get the dealer or jeweler to put their description of what you are buying in writing. A dealer who won’t give a detailed receipt is not a dealer you should risk spending thousands of dollars with. But remember that karat weight is not the only factor in pricing, good design, age, rarity and condition also affect current value.
When shopping for a vintage locket, don’t be put off by a pretty locket lacking a chain. Not all lockets were originally worn around the neck on chains, some were meant to be pinned onto a dress front with or without a short chain. If you fall in love with a locket, buy it, and find a contemporary gold or silver chain from which to hang it. Or hang it from a pretty, narrow ribbon and wear it around your neck, or pinned to your outfit. Happy locket shopping. With a little bit of time and effort you can soon be the proud wearer of a unique fashion statement.
