‘Ahhhhhhh’, a day at the beach, relaxing, and of course surfing. I can think of only a few things in life that are finer. So you would like to learn to surf, very understandable, from my experienced point of view. Well, several components of surfing must be considered in order to really get anywhere with your new sport. Preparing to surf is as important to a successful day of wave riding as actually being in the water. Overlooking the essential surfing equipment is not even an option. Choosing the right type of board, safety equipment, swimwear, and weather are all critical choices. The basic techniques to get started surfing are easy to learn and understand; it is the actual performance that takes practice.
The right equipment is so important for safety and success. First, let us consider what type of surfboard you want. The four basic surfboard designs all have different characteristics that give them different advantages and disadvantages. I think the most telltale attribute is the size. The smallest and widest board is the Fish. The next size up is the Short Board; this surfboard is typically the best all-purpose style body design. The best board for the beginner is the Long Board; this board is long and thick giving it the most balance. Experienced surfers design the Gun, the largest board, for big wave riding. When you shop for your board do not be afraid to ask some questions in order to get a good board for your experience and surfing goals.
Once you have chosen a good board for you, it is time to get a leash and some board wax for it. The leash design allows it to attach from a strap on your ankle to the back of the board. The leash is essential to keep your board from getting lost in the ocean waves and is critical for the protection of other swimmers. Never surf without your leash. Surf wax is the best way to stay on top of your board. Apply the wax only to the places where your feet will go and to the sides where your hands rest during paddling.
Surf wax comes in different colors, scents, and consistencies, but truthfully, all of them will do the trick. It is important to maintain your surf wax on the board, use a surf comb to clean off the sand and salt from the wax in between surf sessions. A dirty surf wax will rub your chest raw and leave you looking like you have a chest rash.
Fins for the underside of your board are a blessing as well, all modern boards are made with them. Fins provide stability when turning and are easily replaced, or taken off for traveling with your board. Lastly, the right swimwear is important when your sport is all in the water. The neoprene wetsuit really is the way to go. These suits help to regulate body temperature, and prevent surf wax rash. Many water suits also have UV protection to prevent sunburns. Therefore, while not essential the wetsuit is a solid investment for the serious surfer.
Now let us consider the essential surfing techniques that you will use from beginner all the way to pro. First off, you need to figure out which foot you naturally lead with, some people can switch, but the majority of surfers have an innate preference. Swimming with your board is an essential skill and takes a little bit of practice to get a feel for the balance. Next, no surfer can be without the Duck Diving technique. Surfers would never get back out to catch waves if they could not get underneath the approaching waves. If you have ever seen a duck dive into the water, you already have a head start. Simply push the nose of your board underwater as a wave approaches. Streamline yourself onto the board and literally duck under the wave, and allowing it to pass overhead. Once the wave is going overhead, begin to pull the nose of your board back up towards the waters surface. The board will naturally bring you back up. Try to begin paddling as soon as you get back on top of the water. Another technique, sitting on your board to look for upcoming waves, is simple. To sit upright on your board just lean back while straddling the back of the board and holding onto to the sides of the boards. This invaluable technique only takes a couple of tries before you have gotten it down.
Standing up is both the most fun and most difficult of the basic surfing techniques. However, popping up onto the board is something you can practice at home. Simply lay on the floor as if you were on a surfboard and just practice pushing up with your hands until you can spring your feet underneath you. If you have to come up on one knee in order to get all the way up that is o.k., but the best technique drives all the way up in one quick motion. Once you have gotten the ‘standup pop’ down take notice of how your feet are landing. It is important to get them relatively centered across the board’s width and about three quarters of the way back its length. Your feet should be a comfortable shoulder-width apart and you want to try to catch the wave before it crashes and begins turning to white water foam. When you are paddling to catch a wave do not approach the beach straight on. Because the shortest distance between two points is a straight line and the longer the ride the better.
Lastly, in the learning process it is important to BE AWARE while you are surfing. Many surfing websites will be able to give you current weather conditions before you head out for your day of surfing. Wind and temperature conditions have a huge effect on the quality of a day of surfing. Additionally, it is important to make sure of what type of a wave break you are going to be surfing. Beginners should stick to Beach Breaks where the waves break over sand, instead of reef or point breaks (over rocks). Be aware of the other surfers around you and remember to yield right of way to the surfer closest to the breaking wave. Let go of your board when you are getting wiped by a wave, and always surf with a buddy. It is safest to pick spots with on-duty lifeguards and remember to stretch first.
Never forget to remember the fun and beauty of the ocean. The water, the air, the sky, the waves, the beach, the exercise, and the meditation of surfing make it one of the most soothing sports. Bring your sunscreen and some drinks and prepare to for the most thrilling relaxation available. See you at the beach.
