Buying a used vehicle can be a risky affair if you don’t know what to look for, and this is especially true of pre-owned motorcycles since most beginning riders will opt for a second-hand machine. Individuals new to motorcycles might not know what to look for in a used bike or how to evaluate and weigh costs associated with repair or replacement of worn items.
This article discusses basic concepts behind choosing a motorcycle that is right for you, talks about what to look for in a used bike, and presents a basic checklist for potential buyers. Buying a new motorcycle is an exciting, emotionally satisfying decision, but it’s important to keep a clear head about you when making this important safety decision.
There are many different types of motorcycles, and personal choice is certainly an important factor when deciding what sort of motorcycle you want to own. If you are a beginning rider, however, you probably should avoid heavy or powerful machines. As a novice rider you should probably pick a light- or middleweight machine with modest displacement and a low seat height.
Motorcycle manufacturers produce a wide range of motorcycles in different styles to accommodate beginning riders, and you shouldn’t feel any stigma when selecting a machine that fits your experience level. Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki and Yamaha all produce cruisers, sport bikes, standards and dual-sport machines below 500 cc. However, most touring bikes, such as the Honda Goldwing, are far too heavy for new riders and many sport bikes are just too powerful for those new to the sport.
In addition, sport bikes and dual-sport machines will generally be quite tall. Both of these types of bikes require considerable ground clearance. Sport bikes accomplish this by using rear-set controls while dual-sport motorcycles are often very tall machines. You do not necessarily need to be able to flat-foot your motorcycle, but if you are a first-time rider you should be aware that stops are more difficult if you cannot at least plant one foot solidly on the ground.
Pick a bike that matches the sort of riding you want to do, but be realistic about your abilities. Sport bikes perform better in curves and are usually faster; touring machines are more comfortable for highway miles; and dual-sports are good if you spend as much time off road as on. For many riders standard style bikes or cruisers are the best choice, since these types of bikes are less specific, often making them better on a day-to-day basis.
Search the Internet for information about the specific models that interest you to avoid buying a bike with a bad reputation, and when possible join mailing lists that discuss the machine you’re interested in. Check Kelly’s Blue Book to determine a baseline price for the model you are interested in, and beware of deals that look too good to be true, because they usually are.
Always inspect used bikes in broad daylight and perform rudimentary safety tests to determine that all lights are functioning and all the controls are in good working order before taking a test ride on an unfamiliar machine. Look for signs of abuse or neglect.
The following are some signs of abuse: Body parts damaged or missing; non-standard blinkers, bolts or nuts; excessive use of safety wire; and any signs that the machine has been raced. Some motorcycles will handle abuse better than others, but it is never a good idea to buy a bike that hasn’t been properly cared for.
The following are some signs of neglect: The bike is improperly stored; the exhaust rusted and / or the tires have dry rot; the bike is not currently inspected and on the road. Be careful of machines that have not been run for a long time, as improperly storing a machine can actually be harmful.
Determine the exact mileage of the machine you’re interested in and figure out how many miles this translates to every year. Motorcycles do not get ridden as many miles as automobiles, so don’t assume a bike has low miles just because it has fewer miles than your car.
Visually inspect the bike and demand a test ride. It is always a good idea to bring a friend who can verify your feelings about a motorcycle. If possible, swap off with your friend to confirm or disconfirm problems you may experience during the driving test. Try to test the bike for both straight-line performance and its ability to turn into a curve. Make sure the brakes don’t lock up or fade under panic stops.
When you decide to buy a vehicle you are, in fact, putting your trust in the individual you’re purchasing it from, so it’s important to try to be a good judge of character. Can you trust what the seller tells you about his or her machine? If he or she has modified the bike, can you trust that the work was done in a professional manner?
You will find the motorcycle of your dreams with a little patience, some knowledge, and common sense.
Basic Checklist
Brakes
Pads: Inspect pads for glazing. When were they changed last?
Hoses: Inspect hoses for crimps, cracks or other signs of defects.
Fluid: Ask when it was last changed.
Rotor: The bike will vibrate during the driving test if the rotor(s) are warped.
Levers: Are the levers stock or aftermarket? Aftermarket levers may indicate a
crash.
Chain and Sprockets
Chain: Check chain adjustment for stretch. Is the chain properly oiled?
Sprockets: Inspect the teeth on the rear sprocket. Are they bent, broken or off
center?
Electrical
Lights: Check that all lights are equally bright.
Headlight: Check hi / low settings. Does the headlight get brighter as the bike’s
raced? This is a sign of a bad voltage regulator or weak battery.
Switchgears: Inspect for damage and check controls.
Engine
- Oil: Is the engine oil dark or gritty? (The engine is a key diagnostic tool to
determine how the engine has been run.)
- Valves: Rev the engine and listen for valve clutter. When were they adjusted?
Alternatively check engine compression, if you have a tester.
- Coolant: Check coolant, if applicable, and ask when it was changed last.
Exhaust
- Color: Blue exhaust smoke is often a sign of bad valves or a failed gasket.
- Discoloration: If the pipes are discolored the bike is probably improperly
jetted.
- Noise: Check for holes in the exhaust or incorrectly mounted systems.
- Backpressure: Put your hands over both exhaust openings. Do they have the
same amount of pressure? If not one cylinder bank isn’t firing or has valve damage.
Gas Tank
- Rust: Rust in the tank means rust in the carburetors and could spell a rebuild.
Suspension
- Forks: Do the seals look tight? When were they changed?
o Air caps: If the bike has air caps, check the pressure in the forks.
- Shock: Does the shock have rebound? Does it “creak” when pushed?
Wheels
- Tires: If the tires are only worn in the center, the bike has likely been driven on
the highway; if they are worn all the way to the edges it has been ridden in the corners. If it is only worn on the edges it has been raced.
- Bearings: Put the bike on the center stand and feel for damaged to the bearings.
