An electric dryer is relatively simple to understand and repair. These are a few of the common problems, with tips on diagnosing and fixing each.
It's very important that you turn off the breaker to the dryer before attempting any repairs. If you prefer, unplug the dryer before doing any work. You'll need screwdrivers (flat, philips, and perhaps torx), pliers, socket wrench, and ohm meter to follow these instructions.
Does your dryer keep running even with the door open? This may not seem like a repair issue at first, but it is. You can be seriously injured by a dryer with a defective door switch. Don't use the dryer. On the other hand, if your dryer won't run at all (even with the door closed), it might also be due to a faulty door switch. In either case, you'll need to replace it.
To replace the door switch, first find the screws that hold the cabinet top. These might be behind the dryer door. Loosen them and lift the cabinet top, being careful to secure it so it doesn't fall while you're working. You should be able to find the door switch on the interior of the cabinet near the door. Disconnect the wires and connect the new switch.
If your dryer runs but doesn't heat, verify that all breakers (or fuses) are fine. If one is blown, the dryer may still operate but not heat. Alternatively, the dryer may heat, but it may not heat up as hot as it should. To repair, first check the vent hose. It must be clear for the dryer to work well. Make sure that the hose isn't being crushed by the dryer. If the hose is very worn, or crushed, you'll need to replace it. The hose attaches to the back of the dryer and the outdoor vent with a spring clamp.
Another common cause of a dryer failing to heat (or only partially heat) is a faulty element. You'll need to replace it. The element should be located in a metal housing on the back of the dryer, but you may need to consult your dryer's specifications to find it. Make a diagram of how the wires connect to the element housing before unscrewing it and removing the element. Inspect the element for breaks in the wires. Often, you can see a break where the element has failed, but not always. If not, you'll need to test the element with an ohm meter. After disconnecting the element housing, touch one lead to a terminal and another to the metal housing. The needle should not move. Repeat with the other terminal.
If the element tests fine, then in all likelihood you'll need to replace the thermal fuse or the thermostat. Both are located near the dryer's vent, but you'll need to remove the back access panel to get to them. First, check the thermal fuse by disconnecting one of its wires. Note that the thermal fuse is rectangular and looks a little like a thermostat, so don't get the two confused. It usually will have only two wires connected to it. Use the ohm meter as described above to test the thermal fuse. If the needle doesn't move, then the fuse needs to be replaced.
If both the element and thermal fuse are fine, then you should replace the thermostat. Make a note of how the wires connect to the thermostat before removing it. Once you remove the metal plate, you'll find the thermostat, which is usually small and round.
What if the dryer will no longer tumble (turn the drum)? In that case, it's likely the belt that is the problem. First, lift the dryer's cabinet top as described above. Disconnect the door switch (as instructed above) and remove the screws that hold the dryer's front panel in place. Remove the front panel by sliding it upwards. Note how the belt is wound around the pulley and drive shaft. If the pulley appears worn, you'll need to replace it at the same time. Cut the belt and pull the drum forward so you can easily access it. Put the new belt on the drum, and slide the drum back in place. Have a helper hold the drum up for you while you reach under and wind the belt around the pulley and the drive shaft. You may need to snap the pulley back into place against the cabinet body.
Another possible cause of a drum not turning is a bad motor. First, remove the belt and look for any blockages in the blower fan housing. If you don't see any, try to turn the motor by hand by rotating the shaft. If it won't turn, or is very hard to turn, you'll need to replace the motor. When you purchase the new motor, you'll also want to ask for the manufacturer's installation guidelines.
If your dryer is unusually noisy, first check the idle pulley. If it's worn, replace it and the belt at the same time as described above. If that isn't the problem, check to see if the drum is supported on wheels or rollers. Sometimes these can wear and require replacement. You'll follow a very similar procedure as for replacing the belt. Open the cabinet top and remove the front of the cabinet. Next, remove the drum. You should see rollers near the back of the dryer. Remove these with a socket wrench or screwdriver. Note that you'll probably need to remove the brackets they're mounted on as well. Your rollers may come with plastic rings (tri-rings). You'll need to pry the old ones out of the roller shafts. Replace the roller and tri-ring. Re-attach the brackets. Finally replace the drum as described above, taking care to route the belt correctly.
Another common cause of a noisy dryer is a clogged blower wheel. Check it for lint and clean it if necessary. If it appears worn, it will require replacement. To access the blower wheel, open the front of the dryer cabinet as described above. Pull the edge of the blower wheel to determine if it is loose on its shaft. If the wheel isn't loose, you can most likely fix the problem by cleaning it. Otherwise, replace the wheel.
To replace the wheel, remove the cover of the blower wheel assembly. The screws are located inside the drum. A C clip holds the blower in place in some dryers. In others, you'll need a socket wrench to loosen it. Remove the old wheel and replace it with a new one.
Remember to always disconnect the power before doing any type of dryer repair. Learning to perform your own repair is easier than you might imagine and will save you time and money.
