Upgrading your bathroom probably doesn’t sound like the sexiest of home improvement projects. However, it is one of the better investments you can make to your home. Realtors will tell you any money spent on bathrooms will more than pay off when you look to sell you home. These days many homeowners are forgoing the tradition shower design for an upgrade once considered a luxury.
Glass-brick showers used to be a project left to the professionals. However, with glass-block kits, any homeowner can create their own masterpiece. These kits come with just about everything you will need, including the glass blocks, spacers, sealant, anchors and reinforcing wire. Some even come with an acrylic shower pan if you are starting from scratch. Depending on the size, kits can cost anywhere from $2000 to $3000. If you are not remodeling an existing shower, you will want to hire a plumber to run water supply lines to the location. Before starting, you will need to decide on the mortar. Traditionally, contractors used the same mortar for glass-bricks, as they used for the bricks on your house. You can find mix for this mortar at your local home store or masonry-supply dealer. A bag usually runs about $10 for a 50-pound supply. However, silicone caulk is becoming increasingly popular. This is a bit more expensive, around $5 for a tube, but will do a better job at keeping the water in the shower.
First, you need to prepare the shower pan for the first layer, also known as a course, of brick. To do that, you will want to use some 80-grit sandpaper on the top of the shower pan. You’ll want to sand it just enough, so the gloss disappears. Wipe the pan clean with a damp cloth and you are ready to lay some bricks. It is important to plan your project carefully. Glass blocks are not easy to cut. You want to measure out the blocks, with ¾ inch spacing for the mortar joint, so the last block is a perfect fit. Some kits will come with “half-blocks” which you can use to fit your space. If you are using traditional mortar, mix up a batch according to directions and let it sit for 20 minutes. The consistency should be slightly drier than that used for brick or concrete block. Also, keep in mind that mortar can burn your skin, so if any gets on your skin, wash it off immediately. Your kit will come with a topcoat solution that you will want to spread on the top of the shower tub with a brush. This will help the mortar bond to the acrylic tub. The kits also come with 2-foot metal straps, called panel anchors. These will strengthen the glass brick. It will also attach the block to the wall. Eventually, mortar will cover these anchors, so there is no need to worry about how it will look. Bend these strips about 8 inches in, so they form an L-shape. Place the first strip 10 inches from the wall, and then every 18 inches after that. You are going to have to bore two holes for each strip. Attach the strip, parallel to the top of the tub, with a two-inch screw.
Time for the mortar. Using a trowel, spread a Âľ-inch layer on top of the tub. Make sure the mortar covers the portion of the metal anchor on the tub. Your kit will come with a 3-inch foam expansion strip which you will want to put on the wall before setting your first block. Most of the kits come with 4-inch and 6-inch wide blocks. Set the first 4-inch wide block against the foam strip. Press one of the plastic spacers included in the kit, on the side of the block, and tap the block into the mortar. Spread the mortar on both sides of a 6-inch block and place it between the spacer and the first anchor. Continue using 6-inch blocks until you finish the first course. Whenever you reach an anchor, completely encase the strip in mortar. Use a level to make sure everything is plumb, or level. If it is not, gently tap the glass brick until it is.
Spread a layer of mortar on top of the first course, and apply your bricks to the second course. Make sure you use the spacers. Place them directly on top of the mortar joint below it. Some contractors like to place all the spacers before placing the bricks. This is up to you. Before setting the third course, bend reinforcing wire to the shape of the wall and press it into the mortar. If the expansion strip continues to run above the course you are working on, trim it so the strip is flush with the blocks. Then, set the long leg of an anchor into the mortar next to the wall and screw the short leg to the wall. If the screws don't hit a stud, use plastic screw anchors. These screw anchors will give you more support. Lay a new foam strip on the shower wall over the short leg of the anchor and begin the third course. You must install reinforcing wire, a wall-attached panel anchor and a new expansion strip after every two courses. Continue these steps until you finished. There is no need to mortar the top of the last course. Every so often, check the wall with a level to ensure that it's plumb, both vertically and horizontally. Every fourth course, take an hour or two break to let the mortar settle.
You have just a couple of steps left. Use the trowel to scrape any excess mortar from the walls. Wash all the glass blocks with a wet sponge. Twist off the plastic spacer tabs using needle-nose pliers and fill those holes with mortar. Allow the mortar to set up for an hour or so. Then, clean the blocks again with a wet sponge. You want to be careful that you don’t pull the mortar out of the joints. If a hazy film appears, you will want to buff the block with a dry cotton cloth. Fill the joints between the shower walls and the glass-block walls with clear silicone sealant. Smooth out the bead with a plastic spoon. Allow the mortar cure for at least seven days, then protect all the mortar joints with the grout sealer included in the kit.
Installing your own glass-block shower will not only increase the value of your home, it will make your bathroom more visually appealing. With a kit and these easy steps, it is a project that you, too, can handle.
