If you have a birthmark or other natural blemish that you’d like to cover, it may end up looking unnatural if you use heavy foundation on it. Instead, use a cosmetic concealer, which is easier and faster to apply and yields better results.
Your local drugstore sells many brands of cover makeup in different forms. Department stores sell more upscale cosmetics, many of which originate from Europe or Japan, and offer concealers of higher quality than those found in drugstores. There are also some nationwide cosmetic chains that carry high quality professional makeup and specialty products.
DIFFERENT FORMS OF CONCEALER
Makeup concealers generally come in four different forms:
1) In a tube, which contains a liquid cream that can vary in moisture content. These types of concealers are usually dewy and sheer, appropriate for lighter skin shades that tend towards dryness. The downside is that too much will easily settle into fine lines.
2) In a stick, which contains a solid dry cream that can vary in moisture content. These are ideal for those with darker skin tones or those who need more opaque coverage.
3) In a pot, which contains a solid, more opaque cream, usually on the dry side. These are ideal for those with darker skin or those who need maximum opaque coverage.
4) In a pencil, which contains a solid dry cream that can vary in moisture content. These can be used on most skin types and are best suited to very small areas, lip lines or touch-ups.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT KIND OF CONCEALER FOR YOU
It’s best to choose a concealer based on your skin type, whether it is dry, normal, oily or combination. One way you can test the coverage of the concealer is to put a small amount on a vein located on your inner wrist. If the coverage is satisfactory to you, then it will probably work great on your face.
Select the right shade concealer for your skin tone by matching the color of your jawbone to the closest of the available shades. Or you could test the color of the concealer over your foundation. If the shades match, you have chosen the correct shade of concealer. Consider buying two of the same products in different shades if necessary, in order to blend them and achieve a match for your skin color. Some women prefer to mix their concealer with their foundation in order to ensure a flawless blend of colors.
If possible, try to get a matching color without any undertones of pink, peach or orange since these often do not look natural. A true concealer should never be noticed.
APPLYING CONCEALER
Depending upon the product consistency and your preference, you may find yourself applying the concealer first and then your makeup foundation. Or you may put foundation and eye makeup on, and then apply concealer. Use the technique that works best for you. Just make sure that the concealer is not wiped away as you are applying other makeup.
Skillful application of concealer is the key to a good look. The warmth from your finger will likely dilute and spread the concealer, and the size of the area you cover cannot be any smaller or differently shaped than your fingertips. For those who prefer to apply concealer with their fingers, the best method is to pat the concealer into your skin so it gets blended evenly. Rubbing will only smear or shift the concealer and it won’t remain on the spot you wanted to cover.
Using a small, slightly pointed or square concealer brush will help you to get much more control on very small areas such as a pimple. Choose a nylon brush, as natural brushes will usually soak up the concealer and will not work as well. With a brush, you’ll be able to apply the product in the exact size and shape necessary for expert coverage.
Gently dab on a very small amount of concealer with the brush, the minimum required to cover the area, without rubbing or pressure. With small circular motions of the brush, you’ll be able to blend evenly without smearing until the spot is unnoticeable. To help the concealer adhere better, put a little concealer on the brush and then dip it into colorless powder and apply. Another trick you can use is to apply concealer to a finger or your hand and wait a bit for it to dry. This greatly reduces a moist concealer’s ability to remove foundation as it is applied.
Let the spot set and then evaluate the appearance. If you need to apply another layer, dust with powder first. The purpose of the powder is to prevent the concealer from migrating from the applied area. Apply another minimal layer of concealer and then apply foundation and blend it beyond the area to camouflage it with the rest of your skin. Finish with one more layer of powder.
COLOR CORRECTION CONCEALERS
If you prefer, you may use a concealer that comes in correction shades, such as green or violet, which are used to neutralize an unwanted color on the face. For example, blue neutralizes orange, green neutralizes red, violet neutralizes yellow, etc. These colors are opposites on the color wheel, which is why they are associated in this fashion.
The reason why colors are used is because sometimes an undesired color can be seen through an application of regular skin-toned concealer. You would first neutralize the flawed color with the opposite color found on the color wheel, and then apply skin-tone concealer over the colored concealer.
Typically, you can buy a color concealer in green, yellow and lavender.
o Green is used to neutralize red tones on the skin and is useful for acne, red scars, red blotchiness on cheeks or nose, rosacea, port wine birthmarks or bluish-red bruises. A green color corrector that is sheer is easiest to work with.
o Yellow is used to conceal circles under the eyes, which often contain blue blood vessels, or bruises that are blue or blue/green. Use this for dark moles, age spots, and blue tattoos.
o Lavender will normalize any imperfections that are yellow, such as yellow or brownish bruises, sallow skin or spots that may be dark on bronzed skin tones.
HOW TO APPLY COLOR CORRECTION CONCEALERS
Dot the colored concealer onto the desired area and blend with your fingertips slightly past the edges of the problem. Let it set and then cover with a concealer that matches the color of your skin tone. Blend this slightly beyond the edges of the colored concealer. After setting, apply your foundation using a downward motion and be careful to not rub the concealer. Apply powder as a last step.
A variation upon the above method for using colored concealers is to apply the smallest amount of color corrector possible, followed by foundation. Once that has set, apply another tiny amount of the color corrector, followed by another layer of foundation. This gives a much more natural effect when you layer the color corrector, versus trying to use a single thick application.
Another school of thought says to not use color correctors because it takes a lot of skill to get good results. If you don’t cover them properly, you will have blue, yellow or green on your face. Many companies make skin colored concealers that have sufficient coverage so that the various undertones will be hidden. These products are obviously less time-consuming to use. Experiment with color correctors to find out if they are right for you.
AREAS NEEDING CONCEALER
Besides blemishes and birthmarks, some other areas on the face that are likely to require concealer are: dark circles under the eyes, the corner of the eye next to the nose, which may show discoloration, and at the outer eye corner of the eye where there is often a downward line of discoloration.
The facial flaws that most women want to hide are usually two dimensional and will not present a problem with the concealer. However, when trying to conceal scar tissue, a raised or depressed scar or mole is difficult to hide with concealer because the makeup tends to accumulate in any depression or around the edges of a raised area, which only draws attention to the irregularity. It might work best to skip concealer for these and only use foundation.
CONCEALING ACNE
For covering acne, it’s recommended to use a shade of concealer that is the same color as your skin, or no more than a half shade lighter than your normal skin tone. A slightly lighter shade can be used because the color difference will be evened out to perfection when you apply your foundation over the concealer. If the concealer is too light compared to your natural skin color, it will draw attention to the area where it is applied.
Using concealer that contains moisturizer is not a good choice for blemished skin, as this will only clog pores and worsen the problem. Consider using an oil-free concealer with built-in acne medication to cover up pimples. The drying agents in these products work all day long to help reduce oil and skin inflammation. Make sure that you don’t use this concealer under or around the eyes because it is too drying and may aggravate the appearance of fine lines.
If desired, use green color correction on acne to diminish the red and then apply a skin-toned concealer. Use a clean makeup sponge or a brush for application, as your fingers are too big for accurate application and may spread bacteria.
Covering pimples can be difficult because they are not flat, and it takes skill to give the area a smooth tone when it has depth and shading. For bumpy acne, it’s best to use the minimal amount of concealer possible or else the makeup will accentuate the uneven skin, which is the opposite of the desired effect.
Dot a small amount of the concealer onto the top of the pimple with a brush or sponge. Blending thoroughly is critical for creating one continuous shade, and involves working the makeup into the area so it doesn’t sit on the surface of the acne bumps and create more texture. After you blend the concealer into the surrounding skin, let it set for a minute and then apply a second coat if necessary. An oil-free foundation used on top of the concealer helps to even out the look. Follow up with a dusting of powder to set the makeup.
Here are two great tips for acne sufferers:
1. Use Visine to take the red out of pimples. It’s just as effective on pimples as it is on your eyes. Squirt some Visine on a cotton ball and hold it against the acne for a few minutes.
2. Use Preparation H to reduce swelling or inflammation due to clogged pores. Leave it on for two or three minutes and then apply the concealer.
CORRECTLY MASKING UNDER-EYE CIRCLES
For underneath the eyes, the most natural look will be obtained when the concealer matches the skin tone of the rest of the facial skin. If too light of a shade of concealer is used to cover dark circles under the eyes, they will reflect too much light and jump out from the rest of the face. White circles under the eyes are just as undesirable as dark ones.
For easy application, place three equally spaced dabs of concealer underneath the eye -- the first beneath the inner corner of the eye, the last just underneath the pupil and the third, somewhere in-between these two. This is better than applying a wide swath of concealer, which is too overbearing. Then blend the concealer using a wedge-shaped makeup sponge or your middle or index finger, and gently pat or dab. Never rub or apply pressure to this delicate skin. Utilizing this stippling technique, extend the concealer just short of the outer corner of the eye to avoid accentuating any fine lines that may be there.
If the circles under your eyes are very dark, it may be necessary to apply a thin layer of additional concealer after the initial application of concealer and foundation.
For eyelids that have redness or uneven color that you wish to cover, apply a very small amount of concealer on the eyelid and pat evenly with your ring finger or a brush. The benefit of wearing a concealer underneath your eyeshadow is that it will keep it fresh looking all day long.
EXTREMELY OPAQUE CONCEALERS
For dark or prominent birthmarks, moles, or skin flaws that cover large areas, there are numerous makeup companies that sell concealers which are specifically formulated to cover even the worst skin imperfections.
The high opacity of these products enables the following skin problems to be camouflaged: scars, port wine and nevus birthmarks, acne and acne scars, freckles, age spots, stretch marks, dark circles under the eyes, spider and varicose veins, bruises, sun damage, tattoos, hyper- and hypo- pigmentation, vitiligo, lupus, rosacea, psoriasis, chloasma, melasma, hemangiomas, telangiectasia, trichoepithelioma, skin lesions from AIDS and lupus, and uneven skin tone.
Your local department store cosmetic counter will carry three brands of this type of makeup: Dermablend, Exuviance Coverblend (made by NeoStrata), and MAC.
Other companies that sell similar products are Joe Blasco, Ben Nye, Cinema Secrets and RCMA Cosmetics. These products are commonly used in the theater and movie industry, and can be found at theatrical and beauty supply outlets, or on the Internet.
Keep in mind that these are "industrial strength" concealers designed to cover minor or major skin problems, and can be used by men, women and children. In fact, these are the products used in the movie industry to cover up tattoos on actors and actresses. They won’t easily come off onto clothes, are waterproof and will last all day with only one application. Many people won’t leave the house without them. Give them a try and you will most likely be very pleased.
