Hair care tips: how to fix a bad perm

We all know the feeling of angst when it comes to living with a bad perm, and can relax knowing there are several methods to repair the ensuing damage. There is no magic answer once the damage is done, but there are methods to help make your bad perm more manageable.

First, we must briefly address how the chemical process affects and alters the hair shaft to create a curl. Understanding the types of damage will allow selection of the right fix for your damage level. For example, there is no need to cut off half the length of your treasured locks when a simple conditioning treatment will do the job.

Each individual hair shaft is covered with cuticles, much like the scales on a fish. The chemical alteration of the perm process adapts the hair shaft to the shape of the perm rod, (comparable to a hard plastic hair roller) and lifts the cuticle to allow penetration of the chemical. The resultant modification of the hair shaft will forge a 'permanent' curl in a straight hair, or rather a long-lasting curl that will remain typically until the hair grows or is cut, thus the term, 'permanent.' A perm can also be applied to alter the shape or size of an existing curly hair shaft for manageability. Dryness, brittleness, or severe damage to the hair can often occur when the chemically lifted cuticles no longer lie flat after the process; the end result is the necessity of a bad perm fix.

In order to repair a bad perm, the specific cause of damage requires identification. There are several types of damage resulting from: incorrect usage of the chemical application, incorrect placement of the perm rods through the hair before the solution is applied (i.e. the rods have been rolled incorrectly, better known as, "fishtails"), or the hair was not necessarily in a healthy condition to warrant the chemical alteration beforehand, resulting in hair that is lackluster and prone to unmanageable flyaway strands.

Dry hair is the lowest level of damage requiring a fix after having received a perm. It is simply the result of the chemical process temporarily removing vital oils from the hair shaft. There may be a few flyaway strands of hair, or a minimal fuzzy texture to the hair. There may also be minimal shine to the hair. Application of an inexpensive instant or daily conditioner, over several days and then weekly will easily resolve this level of damage. A quality conditioner also adds to the vitality of your new curls and the overall health and appearance of your new style.

A "fishtail" is the result of incorrect winding of the hair strands around the perm rod. While all hair should be evenly rolled, sometimes this is not the case. Human error or very straight, coarse, and/or chemical resistant hairs for instance may inadvertently result in an occasional fishtail. You may have noticed some straight ends sticking directly out of an otherwise beautiful curl. There may be one or many. In any event, there are several ways to fix a fishtail:

1. Trim the fishtail end from the curly strand if it is short and does not affect the style and/or cut.

2. Use a curling iron or blow dryer to blend the straight end into a more natural style.

3. Ask your stylist to re-perm longer fishtail(s) to blend. This is a last resort if hair is healthy and can take the abuse of a second application. In any event, wait at least three days before repeating the chemical process, as there will be a minor amount of spillover onto the previously altered hair to avoid any potential secondary damage. Do request the fix from your stylist at no charge.

Chemical misapplication: If perm solution is left on longer than the manufacturers suggested time or hair was not in a healthy condition before the procedure, the perming process can cause irreparable damage. This is the highest and most extreme level of damage and the most difficult to repair without a sizeable haircut. It is still possible, however to repair it to a manageable state without a major style change.

This damage will appear in the way of unshapely curls or no curl, most likely with an uncontrollable 'frizzy' or 'fuzzy' look or it may resemble cotton candy in texture when dry. It may quite literally feel like 'mush' to the touch and resemble your morning oatmeal when wet. Brushing, combing, and ordinary styling adds additional breakage, typically resulting in some temporary hair loss. There are but a few definitive fixes for a chemical misapplication:

1. Ask your stylist to cut the affected hair if you can live with a shorter style, while healthy hair grows out. If you have a steady hand and some haircutting knowledge, you may opt to trim shorter or few fishtails yourself with a pair of sharp haircutting shears.

2. Invest in a quality deep conditioning treatment, also known as a heavy or hot conditioning treatment. Apply per manufacturer's directions. Reapply weekly as necessary. Use a daily instant conditioner, a hair tamer or de-frizzer product. Reapply daily as necessary until the hair is manageable. Over the counter conditioning products are readily available at your local drug or department store, as well as nearby salons.

3. Minimize use of curling irons and blow dryers as the hair grows and is trimmed away to prevent further breakage. Additional heat on already brittle hair lends to more damage.

In the rare event that your bad perm has resulted in burns or severe physical trauma to the scalp, seek medical assistance immediately. You may be having an allergic reaction to the chemicals in the perm solution and may require a physician's course of treatment.

If you have a bad home perm to fix, you may also seek to consult a stylist at a nearby salon for guidance on selection of hair products, such as shampoos and conditioners. Expect to pay a little more for some salon products, as the formulations are many steps above the quality of what you will typically find on the local grocery or drug store shelves.

Please note that your stylist should be a licensed cosmetologist (a requirement in all fifty U.S. states) and qualified to apply chemical solutions, while proactively directing any visible hair health concerns he or she may have before beginning any chemical alteration.

Identifying the type of damage to your hair is the key to a successful bad perm fix. You may not be able to see that once lustrous mane for a few months, but you will have a manageable head of hair, with at least some shine and vibrancy. Remember, a stray fishtail does not require the same intense treatment as broken and mismanaged hair, but will certainly add to the life and bounce of a healthy head of hair after a bad perm.