This article will provide information about Naarden, the capital city of Holland before Amsterdam. Detailed history and current events in the town will be provided.
The local inhabitants recognized the town of Naarden in North Holland as that country's capital long before Amsterdam took over the role. This article will describe the long, diverse history Naarden has witnessed, how the town changed over the years and what it has to offer the resident and the visitor today.
Naarden is to be found on the A1, a major highway between Amsterdam and Utrecht. However, when it was first colonized (around the year 800/900 AD), it was about twenty miles further south on the former Zuiderzee. Its original name was "˜Naruthi' meaning "˜near a small river' and the powerful bishops of Utrecht owned it. By 1131 it was one of the largest cities in the Netherlands, recognized by many as the capital and the emperor of Germany, Otto I, gave the control of the city to the monks residing in the monastery at Eelde, principally to the owner of the monastery - Count Wichman II van Hamaland. Otto I also gave Naarden it's shield - a double black eagle sitting on a gold background.
Naarden has always been a fortress town with the principal function of protecting the land against invaders. Count Floris V of Holland and Zeeland built the first stone fortress on the River Vecht. This ensured that he could control all trade on the estuary. The Count met his death in 1296 on the banks of the Naardermeer when he was stabbed during a conspiracy by the former landowners - the bishops of Utrecht. They once more controlled Naarden under the leadership of Bishop William van Mechelin.
The next notable event in the town's history was undoubtedly the 80-year Spanish Civil War (beginning 1350). Spain was one of the most powerful countries in Europe at this time with a fleet of ships (the Spanish Armada) and ammunition to aid them in their quest to conquer other European countries. Despite fighting bravely many Dutch nationals died at the hands of the Spanish and their city was burned to the ground. It was rebuilt in 1400, 20 kilometers further north and the emphasis was on defense. Naarden was subsequently captured twice, by the French and by the Prussians, during the Napoleonic Wars.
Today, Naarden is one of the remaining bastions in the Netherlands and is the only fortification in Europe that has unique double walls and moats. Built in a 5-star shape (which can be best observed from the air) it ceased to be used as a fort in 1926.
However, the history of the fortifications in Naarden is preserved at the Nederlands Vesting Museum - in the old part of the town (Naarden-Vesting). The star-shape of the fortifications (following the French engineer Vauban's architecture) has remained unchanged since the seventeenth century and the museum - the Turfpoort Bastion - is situated on one of the five points of the star. The museum "˜proper' is underground and walking through it will take you up on to the roof of the fort and will provide excellent views of the water - the Hollandse Waterline (or Water Defense Line), with its moats and bridges. Tours are provided by boat around the lake. Also in the museum is a 61 meter-long "˜eavesdroppers' passageway and the Kraijenhoff collection. Thus, the Nederlands Vesting Museum is both an indoor and outdoor history fest. On Easter Monday, Whit Monday and every third Sunday in the summer months from May to September bygone times come to life here. Cannoners, dressed in period costume fire a 12-pound cannon on these days and others (also dressed in seventeenth century dress) entertain the public.
Another area built on water is to be found to the west of Naarden. The Naardermeer, on the banks of which Count Floris V lost his life (see earlier) is today one of the most beautiful nature reserves in the Netherlands. In fact, it was the country's first nature reserve and consists of a freshwater lake surrounded by marshland. It is home to thousands of bird species, deer, small mammals and fish. The birds can be observed from a wooden hut serving as a lookout and situated at a discrete distance. The land on the banks of the Naardermeer is closed to the public and the whole area has been under the protection of the Nature Monuments Organization since 1906. In the past the freshwater from the lake has been used to re-hydrate the nearby land, and the whole area has a peaceful, tranquil charm. It's difficult to imagine that this area is so close to the capital city of Amsterdam.
Another beautiful area is Naarden's forest - the Naarderbos, which has a much shorter history than the Naardermeer. The forest was planted northwest of the town as recently as 1980 and is used as a recreation park (buildings and sports pitches nearby cater to hockey and tennis clubs). Comprised mostly of oak, chestnut and beechwood trees the forest has many paths and picnic areas and is an excellent place to while away a summers day.
Back in Naarden-Vesting, on the Kloosterstraat, is the Comenius Museum, a place of pilgrimage for Czech travelers. It is here that the famous Czech scholar, philosopher, theologian and educator, Jan Amos Comenius (1592-1670) is remembered. He is also buried in the adjoining Waalse or Waloon chapel and his resting place is a work of art. The tombstone is marble and the mausoleum (built in 1930 by Czech artists) in the chapel is adorned with woodcarvings and a bronze screen in front of the tomb. Interestingly, in the 1930s when the memorial was being created the Dutch government rented it to the Czechs at the princely sum of 1 guilder a year (about 20 US cents).
Comenius, a protestant, spent much of his life fleeing from Catholic persecution and as a result he lived in Poland, Hungary, Sweden and England before spending the last fourteen years of his life in Amsterdam. The museum provides artifacts, video presentations and a chronology of Comenius' works and beliefs to the public throughout the year.
"˜Orbis Sensualium Pictus', Comenius' most famous book, was written while he was living in Naarden. A great believer (perhaps the first) in a United Europe, his ideas gave rise to the current charter of the United Nations. At the time he was in the Netherlands, Naarden offered refuge to people who were fleeing political persecution, just as he was fleeing religious persecution, and thus it is apt that he is buried here.
Close by to this pilgrimage site (which is housed in a former monastery) is the St Vitus or De Grote Kerk (the Great Church). Situated on Marktstraat it is a central meeting place where organ music nights (some by the internationally known Dutch Bach Society) and choral music by the St. Matthew Passion, are held throughout the year. The music sounds magical in this church because the acoustics are so good and there are wonderful paintings on the wooden ceiling which capture the attention. The church is one of the oldest surviving churches in the Netherlands, dating from the fifteenth century and was the only building in Naarden to survive yet another Spanish invasion (1572). During the last restoration beautiful paintings depicting scenes from the Bible were uncovered - they had lain hidden for many years. A meeting place, the Grote Kerk also holds the annual Naarden Photo festival, and various congresses throughout the year.
Naarden's Town Hall is also an important building. Built in 1601 it is currently very popular for weddings. In the seventeenth century it was used to store weapons and is now being converted into a conference hall, while the surrounding area will be transformed into shops, accommodations and restaurants. The Town Hall or Oude Stadhuis has retained its Dutch Renaissance charm, while the roof is shaped in the old style - stair-shaped steps on both sides.
Yet another interesting building in Naarden, situated on the Turfpoortstraat, is the Spanish House (Spaanse Huis). It was an old church building originally used to house migrants to the Netherlands. It then became the City Hall in 1615 and part of the building (De Waag) was a surveillance headquarters in the nineteenth century. After this time it was the garrison bakery and from 1924-1992 a museum. The building has thus a rich and diverse history and today it houses the Façade Stone - a memorial piece of rock, which commemorates the 1572 Spanish War. Old paintings of the town can be observed in Galerie Groll also on the Turfpoortstraat.
In conclusion, Naarden has a very interesting history. Today, it is a bustling town with many restaurants and buildings that are well worth a visit. A popular residential area it has nearby Bussum for shopping and a rail link with Amsterdam and all the other major cities in the Netherlands. Beautiful, modern yet at the same time ancient Naarden deservedly won the Europe Nostra Prize in 1990 for its restoration of the fortifications. Steeped in history this town is worth a "˜slot' on anyone's' travel itinerary to the Netherlands.
