The medieval town of Rye in East Sussex has a long connection with smuggling and is considered the best preserved small old town in England
You're visiting the capital but want a temporary respite from all the hustle and bustle. Look no further than the coast of East Sussex and the ancient town of Rye. There's no better place to retreat than this medieval red-roofed hilltop town, a mere hour and a half from central London.
Founded by the Saxons, its name meaning 'island', Rye was originally surrounded by the sea and today remains almost entirely encircled by three rivers; its isolated position enhancing its appeal. Though one can be easily deceived by the town's relaxed ambience, Rye has had a dramatic history. In its early role as one of the Cinque Ports, an ancient body set up to defend England against the threat of invasion, it maintained a high profile and at the height of its renown in the 13th & 14th centuries contributed 5 ships to the king's fleet. In 1377 a French attack depleted much of Rye's resources and over the next few centuries the town's fortunes fluctuated, largely affected by the forces of nature as the sea began to recede and the relentless silting of the estuary changed the nature of the harbour. Notwithstanding this, Rye was still a trading port of importance and in the 19th century was the centre of the ship-building industry;warships for the Crimea set sail from here. In the present, the maritime connection continues, as Rye still derives income from boat-building.
Today it is a thriving market town, apty described as a place 'that brings the past right into the present day.' As you wander the cobbled streets and explore the quayside where the industrial warehouses now house a Heritage Centre, you feel the spirit of this distinctive town which has drawn so many writers and artists over the course of its history, remains undimmed and largely unaltered by the passage of time and the influx of tourism.
In the evening when the last daytripper has disappeared or adjourned to the warmth of a nearby inn, as you watch the sun sink down over Romney Marsh, the sheer tranquillity of a place described by 17th century resident Samuel Jeake as ' a town of beautiful prospect,' enfolds you. Jeake's house stands in the middle of Mermaid St, a place that epitomises Rye's appeal with its half-timbered houses jostling for space.Its narrow cobbled streets have changed little over the centuries and the Mermaid Inn, Rye's largest medieval building, looms as imposingly as ever. In its heyday this tavern was the watering-hole for many a smuggler, its most infamous revellers being the bloodthirsty Hawkhurst gang reviled as 'that nest of vermin' who terrorised the area in the mid 18th century.
Smuggling and Rye are inextricably linked. As an important Cinque Port Rye smugglers were treated with leniency; a contributing factor being the covert involvement of many corrupt town officials who benefited from the affordable goods these mewn provided. Russell Thorndike based his well known Dr Syn books in the Rye area.
Many other literary figures found inspiration here. Rumer Godden and E F Benson( the author of the Mapp & Lucia books)both resided here whilst Renaissance playwright John Fletcher was born in Rye in 1579. Perhaps the town's most famous inhabitant was the novelist Henry James who fell in love with Rye at first sight and made his home in Lamb House, tucked away just off Mermaid St. Between 1897-1914 James wrote here, often dictating copy in the garden room that was sadly destroyed by a bomb in World War II. Even in his final years when il health forced a move to London, he long cherished the memory of the 'blessed, the invaluable refuge of Lamb House.' Built in 1721 by James Lamb, whose descendants held the office of mayor for well over a century, this house witnessed two events of importance in its early years. In 1726 George I, blown ashore on nearby Camber Sands made his way to the mayor's house and was duly recruited as godfather to Lamb's child, born that very night. On a darker note, sixteen years later Lamb became the centre of Rye's most notorious murder case. Nurturing a long held grievance one night butcher John Breads lying in wait in the churchyard poinced on his unwary victim (the mayor as he supposed) only to later discover that it was Allan Grebell, Lamb's brother-in-law that he'd murdered, duped by the red cloak of office that Grebell had been loaned that night.Breads unfathomably proclaimed his guilt in the streets, screeching " butchers should kill lambs" for all the world to hear. Hanged for his crime, remains of his skull are still on display in the town hall. Today Lamb House has gentler associations. Acquired by the National Trust in 1948 it is a literary shrine (open Wed/Sat only) adorned not only by portraits of James but a whole host of other distinguished visitors of the period, including Ford Madox Ford, Conrad and Kipling.
A good starting point for the day is a trip to the Heritage Centre on Strand Quay which boasts a fascinating scale model of the town complete with audio-visual display that plunges you headlong into Rye's Victorian past. From here, whether you choose to wander at leisure, meandering through the cobbled streets or plan a more structured walk you'll derive the same pleasure.
You may admire the 14th century Landgate, once the town's only means of entry at high tide, browse through Rye's history in the Ypres Tower (once a prison site and mortuary) or simply drink in the spectacular view from the top of St Mary's church tower, but the abiding impression is of an oasis of peace. A place that, to echo the sentiments of E F Benson, remains 'perfectly enchanting'; not a neat picture-postcard paradise-its endearing medley of houses dating from ecery era thankfully prevent this- but a genuinely picturesque town of immense charm that deserved wider acquaintance.
