An overview of Paris, France and the things to do there.
Paris, "City of Lights:" its perfectly planned streets allow visitors surprise vistas as they explore this gem of a city. Round a corner and catch a glimpse of Notre Dame Cathedral or stroll down the Champs Elysees, perfectly aligned between the Arc de Triumph and the Louvre museum. Paris is beautiful. Explore museums; sample freshly baked croissants; shop for delicate French-made lingerie or designer fashion at one of the art nouveau department stores. Whatever your interests, Paris has something to interest you.
Museums.
Paris is a city of museums: large museums and small, specialized museums, way too many to list. A few of my favorites are:
Le Louvre. One of the world's greatest museums, the Louvre can seem overwhelming at first. It is best enjoyed by dividing it into smaller sections. Understand that you can't see the whole museum in one day. Highlights of the Louvre include the Greek sculpture collection (which features the Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory of Samathrace), 16th century Italian painting (including the Mona Lisa), 16th and 17th century Flemish painting (including works by Rubens, Van Dyck, and Rembrandt), and French paintings up to the 19th century. Make sure, also, to see architect I.M. Pei's pyramid entrance in the center courtyard.
Le Musee d'Orsay (the Orsay Museum). Though technically devoted to all 19th century French art, The Musee d'Orsay is about the Impressionists. Housed in a brilliantly restored, 19th century train station, the Musee d'Orsay displays the masterpieces of Monet, Renoir, Manet, Pissarro, Cezanne, Utrillo, Degas, and Sisley, among others. Head right to the top floor when you arrive to view this exquisite collection. Simply displayed on stark, white walls, the Orsay lets these works shine without adornment. The museum also has an interesting collection of art nouveau furniture, glass, and art objects, including many by Henri Guimart (designer of the original Paris Metro stations). A café located under the clock is a nice place to rest and regroup.
Le Musee du Mode (fashion museum). The fashion museum is a tribute to the incomparable fashion designers of France, past and present. On display are gowns created by Dior, St. Laurent, Givenchy, to name just a few. Featured outfits include the Dior wedding dress worn by Bridgette Bardot. This four-story gallery is right around the corner from the Louvre. A very French experience and a "must-see."
Le Musee Rodin (Rodin museum). This elegant mansion near Les Invalides houses an extensive collection of the work of Auguste Rodin, the 19th century sculptor. His moving, life-like, rugged pieces made of clay, marble, bronze, and granite are simply displayed, adding to their majesty. The mansion, itself, is noteworthy. Its carved wood paneling, elegant iron balustrades, and marble floors hint at the life of the privileged in "fin du siecle" Paris. A rose garden behind the house is adorned with Rodin sculpture and is a nice spot to take a break from museum hopping.
Les Invalides. Les Invalides was originally built in the 17th century by Louis XIV as a home for disabled servicemen. At one time it could accommodate 7000 men. Today, Les Invalides is home to the Musee de L'Armee (Army museum) and its collection of weapons, maps, and uniforms from all periods of French history. It is also home to Napoleon's massive, granite tomb, which lies directly under the dome.
Le Marmatton. Located on the outskirts of Paris in the 16th arrondissement (district), Le Marmatton museum houses an incredible collection of Claude Monet's works. Created with works given to France by Monet's heirs in the 60s, this small gem of a museum has a large collection of Monet's later water lily paintings. Also on display are works of Monet's friends: Degas, Renoir, and Sisley, among others.
Parks.
A stroll in the park is the quintessential Parisian activity. The Tulleries garden between the Louvre museum and the Place de La Concorde is a perfect place to stroll. Originally the site of the Tulleries Palace (destroyed during the Paris commune in 1871), the Tulleries Garden hosts "Punch and Judy" puppet shows, summer boat races, and elderly gentlemen playing boule (the French lawn bowling game). This is the place to see a true slice of Parisian life.
Another lively park is the Luxembourg gardens. Here, behind the Luxembourg Palace - the seat of the French Senate, are ponds, statues, fountains, and lots of green space. This park is very popular with the students who live in the nearby Latin Quarter.
Shopping.
Fashion, food, books, and art are just some of the great finds in Paris. The two major department stores, Le Printemps and Les Galeries Lafayette, both Art Nouveau architectural marvels, are right next door to one another. Very convenient. Paris also is home to small clothing boutiques, a myriad of used book stores and stands, stores selling food and culinary ware, and many, many art and antique shops. For something different, stroll through the permanent flea market just north of Paris in Clignancourt.
Le Marais.
Le Marais (literally, the marsh), the neighborhood centered around La Place des Vosges is the oldest area in Paris. Originally planned as housing for the nobility by King Henri IV in the 1600s, Le Marais is an architectural wonder. The townhouses around the square have chiseled stone facades and an arcade circling the ground level. The arcade is home to cafes, art galleries, and trendy clothes shops. Le Marais has been restored over the last two decades and today is home to many of Paris' avant-garde. Le Marais' narrow cobblestone streets leading off the square are filled with restaurants, art galleries, bookstores, and antique stores. This area is also home to the Picasso Museum and Le Carnavelet, a museum about the history of Paris housed in a 15th century mansion once owned by Madame de Sevigny (famous for her 17th letters to her daughter detailing daily Parisian life). This compact neighborhood is perfect for a stroll, a little history, and a great meal.
The Eiffel Tower.
Ok, sure it's touristy, but it's still impressive. This symbol of Paris, designed in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel for the Paris World's Fair, attracts over 5000 visitors a day (and they're not all tourists). The tower is 1000 ft tall and was assembled using 2.5m rivets. Composed of three viewing platforms, you ascend to the first two levels via a diagonal elevator or by foot. These lower two levels offer open air viewing as well as a choice of restaurants, including the posh "Jules Verne." The third level is fully enclosed and reached via an elevator through the center of the tower. In clear weather, the 360-degree view encompasses all of Paris.
Other Monuments.
The rich history of Paris lends itself to monuments. Make sure you visit the Arc de Triumphe, Napoleon's tribute to the French armies of the revolution and the First Empire. The Arc du Carrousel, outside of the Louvre Museum is another Napoleonic tribute, this one to his victories. The Obelisk in the center of the Place de La Concorde was a gift from Egypt in 1833. It stands innocently in the spot where so many Parisians were guillotined during the Reign of Terror following the French Revolution. Stand in the center near the obelisk and take in the impressive vistas.
Food.
It is impossible to get a bad meal in Paris. Some meals are better than others, but Parisians take pride in food preparation and service. From street stands to five-star culinary meccas, Paris has wonderful eateries. Grab a baguette and a slice of cheese from a local store and eat them in the park. Sip coffee at an outdoor café and watch the parade of passersby. Sample an array of ethnic fare; Vietnamese food is very popular in Paris. Taste the food of the provinces with a pocketbook-friendly, prix fixe menu; most are posted outside the establishments.
The River Seine
The Seine runs directly through the center of Paris. "Bouquinistes:" booksellers and stands selling lithographs and prints line both banks in good weather. The Quais, the walkways along both riverbanks, are ideal for a stroll, especially in spring. Boats of all shapes and sizes cruise this river. Have dinner under the stars, dance, sightsee, or just relax.
Montmartre.
Once the home of generations of poor, struggling artists (Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Manet, Utrillo, and Picasso, among others), Montmartre, today, is a tourist mecca. Still worth a visit, Montmartre is centered around the Place du Tertre. In good weather, this square is lined with reasonably priced artists. Cafes and beer emporiums as well as souvenir shops abound in the square.
Montmartre is also home to Le Sacre Coeur, the Byzantine-Romanesque, white-domed church built in 1876 as a symbol of hope after France's defeat by the Prussians and the suppression of the Paris Commune in 1871. Located on the highest point in Paris, it offers sweeping views of the city from the front portico.
Notre Dame Cathedral.
Begun in 1163 by Louis IX (Saint Louis), this Gothic masterpiece took 150 years to complete. By the 19th century, this massive stone church had fallen into disrepair and was scheduled to be demolished. The author, Victor Hugo (of "Hunchback of Notre Dame" fame) raised funds necessary to save the church and led the restoration effort. What a jewel he saved for Paris. The rose, stained glass window in the front of the building sparkles. The small, intimate chapels adorned with stained glass and stone effigies that surround the nave give one cause to pause and reflect. Services are held here on Sundays in French and in Latin.
A treacherous spiral staircase, reached from the outside, winds its way up to the tower and rewards climbers with a panoramic view.
Underneath the church, accessible from the front square, is the Notre Dame archeological museum containing the recent excavations of the 6th century Merovingian church St. Etienne which once stood where Notre Dame is today.
The Cathedral is best viewed from the rear. Stroll around to the back for a spectacular view on the flying buttresses and the river Seine.
Sainte-Chapelle.
This High Gothic, 13th century masterpiece is nestled behind the Palais du Justice on the Ile de la Cite near Notre Dame Cathedral. Originally build by Louis IX (Saint Louis) as a private chapel for the royal family, the chapel is now used only occasionally for services. The church is divided into an upper and lower chapel. The dark, drab downstairs chapel was the originally for servants. Ascending the narrow, spiraled staircase to the upper (the royal) chapel, the sheer beauty assaults you as soon as your head reaches the floor. The floor-to-ceiling stained glass windows, each depicting a scene from the Bible, have been meticulously and brilliantly restored and are truly spectacular. Seek out this special place.
