Munich, the capital of Germany’s Bavaria region, has always been synonymous with beer. The city is the home of the famous Oktoberfest – the world’s greatest beer festival – but even at other times of the year, Munich enjoys something of a love affair with beer. Perhaps it is this that is partly responsible for Munich’s justified reputation as one of Europe’s liveliest and friendliest cities. Munich is a big city, but even the locals sometimes jokingly refer to it as a small village.
Munich was extensively damaged by bombs during World War II, but the historic center of the city has largely been reconstructed as it was – many of the old looking buildings are not as old as they appear. The center of Munich is the large pedestrianized square, the Marienplatz. The square was named for a statue of the Virgin Mary that was erected in 1638 as an act of thanksgiving for the city having survived Europe’s 30 years war. On a warm day the square fills with impromptu entertainers, as well as residents and visitors passing the time at one of the sidewalk cafes. The streets leading off the square contain many of Munich’s most exclusive department stores and restaurants. On the north side of the square stands the imposing Neues Rathaus (new city hall). One of the things that you have to see if you are in Munich, which is something of a daily ritual, is the chiming of the glockenspiel. This elaborate clock chimes several times a day, accompanied by moving mechanical figures on the clock tower. The figures act out two important events in the city’s history – a tournament held in the square in 1568, and the commemoration of the end of the plague in 1517. It’s worth climbing to the observation deck on top of one of the towers; on a clear day you can see as far as the Alps.
Munich has many museums and galleries, among them are some of the best in Germany. The biggest and best museum in the city is the Deutches Museum. (German Museum of Science and Technology) The huge collection here is spread over 6 floors and 30 different departments; there is also an IMAX theater and the most technologically advanced planetarium in Europe. Other museums that give an insight into the city’s history and culture are the Bavarian National Museum - the highlights here are some wonderful medieval wood carvings - and the German hunting and fishing museum.
Munich has one of the most splendid royal palaces in Europe – the Schloss Nymphenberg. The palace was originally built in 1663 as a summer residence by Prince Ferdinand, and enlarged over a period of 200 years, making it the largest palace in Germany. One of the rooms houses the famous Gallery of Beauties, a collection of portraits of women who Ludwig I admired. Apart from the rich furnishings and antiques of the palace itself, you can see how even the dogs lived in luxury, in the lavish royal kennels. The palace is surrounded by magnificent gardens where chamber music concerts are given during the summer months.
But many people still come to Munich to enjoy beer – its history, culture and of course consumption. Germany is the world’s largest producer and consumer of beer; most beers are still strictly brewed according to the levels of purity of their ingredients. When the weather is mild, there is nothing nicer than having a drink in one of Munich’s more than 100 beer gardens. The gardens are such an important part of the city’s culture that there was a mass demonstration in the city when the council proposed cutting back on the hours they were allowed to open. One of the most famous and picturesque beer gardens is the Chinese Tower beer garden, situated in Munich’s main park, the English Garden. Apart from the beer gardens, there are the beer halls, the most well-known of which is the Hofbrohaus. This huge beer hall with its vaulted ceilings features waitresses carrying several huge mugs of beer in each hand, and a typical German brass band. It is noisy and touristy, but is still a unique experience especially as you will almost certainly end up sharing your table with strangers.
Munich’s love of beer culminates with one of Europe’s great festivals – The Oktoberfest - which actually takes place at the end of September. What started out as an agricultural fair almost 200 years ago has become one of Europe’s largest and most enjoyable festivals, visited by over 6 million people each year. It’s rather like a state fair with stalls, rides and exhibits – but on a much larger scale. Plan early if you intend to visit Munich during the Oktoberfest.
In stark contrast to the exuberance of Munich, a day trip to the site of the infamous concentration camp at Dachau is a must. The complex is just a few miles northwest of the city, and apart from the few cell blocks that remain, there are photographs, exhibits and a documentary film shown daily. More than just a museum, Dachau has become a moving memorial to the dead of the last world war.
