Traveling to the former Soviet republic of Georgia is still something of an adventure. This huge country, independent since 1991 still has limited tourist facilities, and the state department still issues occasional travel advisories to its remoter areas. Visit Georgia though and you will find friendly people, historic cities, spectacular countryside – and a fascinating culture that combines aspects of Europe, the Middle East and Asia. As Georgia gradually becomes more stable, it is beginning to attract more and more curious travelers. The people of Georgia are renowned for their hospitality – many will invite strangers into their homes; it is said that refusing a drink when offered will usually offend a Georgian.
Most visitors to Georgia will begin their trip in Tbilisi, the capital and largest city. Tbilisi is a rather dilapidated but charming city of about 1.7 million, in a dramatic setting, surrounded by hills, and straddling the river Kura. The city has many churches and mosques, many situated in the Old Town, the most fascinating quarter of the city. Many houses in this neighborhood have large overhanging balconies, which is something of a feature of Tbilisi. Dominating the skyline of the city is the huge Narikala Fortress, which contains the church of St Nicholas. Parts of the fortress with its huge defensive walls date back to the 4th century, although much of the present walls were rebuilt in the 8th century on the orders of the Arab Emirs. Accommodation and eating out are inexpensive in Tbilisi by Western standards; one of the best ways to spend an evening is to enjoy a meal at one of the restaurants specializing in local cuisine. Your meal is usually accompanied by impromptu local singing and dancing as well as the food. A relaxing way to spend time in Tbilisi is to soak in one of the many hot baths that the city is known for. The aptly named Abanos Kucha Street (Bath Street) is lined with establishments offering this luxury; many of the baths are in dark subterranean areas. The Russian author, Pushkin, who regularly bathed here, described the experience as ‘his best bath ever’.
An easy day trip from Tbilisi by bus or taxi is the ancient town of Meskheta, once the religious and royal capital of Georgia. Today, the town is a UNESCO world heritage site and contains some of the oldest churches in the country. The most spectacular sight in the town is the 11th century Sveti-Tskhoveli Cathedral, the largest cathedral still in use as a place of worship in the country. Legend has it that this is the spot where Christ’s robe was buried.
In the north of the country, the Caucasus Mountains form a natural barrier between Georgia and Russia. The area is mostly unspoiled with little commercial development, and offers wonderful mountaineering, hiking and fishing – or just some solitude. A peaceful retreat in the mountains for relaxing and perhaps rejuvenating in one of the many mineral baths is the town of Utsera. There are over 28 different natural springs in the town, and the surrounding streams run orange due to the large amounts of calcium in the water. Elsewhere in the mountains, one of the great driving adventures is along the Georgian Military Highway. This ancient road crosses the Caucasus from Tbilisi to the town of Vladikavkaz, offers stunning mountain scenery and challenging driving around hairpin bends. The small town of Kazbegi makes a good base along the road to explore the mountains, and several guides in the town offer organized treks. The 14th century Holy Trinity church in the town has become an unofficial symbol of the new Georgia – a beautiful religious structure that, against all odds, survives in a forbidding setting. This region is so isolated that the ornately decorated church receives few visitors – if you want to visit the church you simply ask in the village for the key.
Surprisingly, Georgia is also one of Europe’s major wine producers. Anytime is a good time to visit the wine producing region of Kakheti in the east of the country, but especially during the grape harvest in September and October. This celebration is usually accompanied by raucous drinking songs for which the region is famous. Georgian wines have long been a favorite of many countries in Eastern Europe and were enjoyed by the tsars of Russia. Not a bad achievement for a country that few people know anything about.
