Learn how to replace a damaged plug safely and easily. By doing it yourself, you'll save costly electrician bills.
Note that it can be normal for the plug to feel warm when it's being used, but it isn't normal, or safe, for it to feel hot. If it is hot, it's a sign that the plug and cord will likely fail and need to be replaced. If the plug has signs of burn marks, you should replace both the cord and the plug because the cord is likely not a heavy enough gauge for the task it is performing. This is a typical problem of extension cords.
However, if the plug is only damaged, it can be safely replaced. Note that you will lose about six inches of cord length. If the cord will be too short at that point, you should replace the appliance's cord and plug at the same time. Don't resort to an extension cord since they can often be safety hazards.
Always unplug any cords before you begin working. To replace a damaged plug, first cut the plug off the cord as close to the plug as possible. Inspect the cord itself for wear or damage, especially near the plug. Cut off any worn or damaged areas as well. If the entire cord seems worn, it should be replaced along with the plug.
New plugs come in snap-on (quick-connect) and screw-on varieties. Snap-on plugs clip to the end of the cord and connect to the wiring within using metal prongs. These are less secure than the screw-on type. Snap-on plugs can be used on flat cords only, but screw-on plugs can be used on either flat or rounded cords.
These instructions are for installing a screw-on plug.
Thread the cord onto the plug. If the cord is flat, split the cord down its center axis about two inches. Use a utility knife to make the initial cut, and then pull it apart by hand.
If you're replacing a plug on a round cord, you'll first need to strip the outer insulation. Use a utility knife to score the outer insulation, taking care not to cut the wire insulation on the inside. If you do cut the inner insulation, you'll need to remove that section of cord and start the process over. Remove the outer insulation so that about three inches of inner insulation is exposed.
For both the flat and rounded cords, your next step is to tie an "Underwriter's Knot." This well help relieve strain on the cord. Hold the cord in your left hand with the wire ends pointing upward. Bend each end down (left and right) until you can grasp each in your left hand along with the cord body. Two loops should be formed, making the cord resemble a heart.
The left-side cord end, which now points to the right, should be behind the main cord body. The right-side end, which now points to your left, should be in front of the main cord body.
Take the left-side cord end, which points to your right, and thread it up through the right-hand loop. Take care to thread it from back to front. Do the same with the right-side cord end, so that it is threaded through the left hand loop, but thread it from front to back. Pull the wires tight to complete the knot.
Next, you'll cut off any excess wire, but be careful to leave enough to wrap around the screw terminals. Strip about half an inch of wire, being careful not to cut the internal wiring. Twist the wires and then wind them around the screw terminals, clockwise.
There are easy guidelines to help you remember which wires connect to which terminals. First, a black wire is hot, and it should be connected to the terminal matching the smaller prong. The white wire is neutral and should be attached to the terminal matching the larger prong. For a flat cord, which is ungrounded, you've finished. For a grounded cord, you'll also need to attach the ground wire, which is often green, to the terminal screw matching the rounded prong.
Note that the hot terminal usually has a brass screw; the neutral terminal usually has a silver screw; and the ground plug usually has a green screw.
You've just successfully, and safely, replaced your cord's plug. To prolong the life of your cord and plug, never yank the cord to unplug it. Grasp the plug instead.
