New York State wine, explore the origins of wine production, main grape varieties, and their regions.
After California, New York State is the second largest wine producing state in North America. Admittedly, New York State produces less than 10% of California's volume, but its wine production is still approximately eight times greater than that of Washington State, another major North American producer of quality wines.
Origins:
As far back as the early nineteenth century, native and hybrid American grape varieties were planted in what is now the Hudson River AVA (American Viticultural Area). Hudson Valley, in fact, can lay claim to the oldest active winery in the United States, the Brotherhood Winery, which recorded its first vintage in 1839.
By the end of the nineteenth century, there were more than 20,000 acres (8094 hectares) of vineyards in New York State. The greatest increase in planting and developing took place in the Finger Lakes Region. Early wine pioneers firmly believed that the extreme winter climatic conditions, where temperature reached 50ยบ degrees, made it impossible to grow Vitis Vinifera (wine bearing vines which produce some of the world's greatest wines) in New York State. Instead, table and juice grapes were planted and for over a century, this remained the status quo. It was not until the 1950's that the winds of change swept through the vineyards of this northerly state.
For many years, enterprising viticulturists had tried, on a small scale, to grow European grape varieties in New York (and other eastern states, for that matter). Somehow, however, they were always defeated, not only by the harsh climatic conditions, but also by the devastating native vine diseases of the region. Despite repeated failure, they never gave up. Determined New York winemakers and wine cognoscenti continued to yearn for true European style wines.
The breakthrough, when it came, was largely attributable to the enthusiasm of a Dr. Konstantin Frank, whose experience, during the 1950s, in Europe and particularly in the Ukraine, had convinced him that other worldwide grape varieties could survive the harsh winters of New York State. This skilled Russian viticulturist immigrated to the United States, bringing with him his vast knowledge of cold-climate grape-growing. He was the catalyst. A major rethinking took place and subsequent experimentation led to widespread success. Nowadays, international grapes varieties are fast replacing American hybrids, as vineyard continue to be dug up and replanted.
Which grape varieties grow in New York State?
There are three main categories of grape varieties:
Native American - Vitis Labrusca
European - Vitis Vinifera
French/American - Hybrids
Native American Varieties:
The Vitis Labrusca remains popular amongst New York State wine producers, mainly because they are such hardy grapes and can withstand the cold winters. The most common Vitis Labrusca grapes include Concord, Catawba and Delaware. Many of these varieties have high acidity, often masked by considerable sweetness. The resulting wines display a characteristic "foxiness" and are sometimes describes as "Welch's" and "Manischewitz".
European Varieties:
Thanks to the vision, several decades ago, of Dr. Konstantin Frank, the traditional European, Vitis Vinifera, are now grown extensively, throughout the state. Initially, the New Yorkers were skeptical, to which Dr. Frank replied: "What do you mean? I'm from Russia - it's even colder there!" Today the Vitis Vinifera grown in New York State produce some of the world's classiest wines, particularly the white Riesling and Chardonnay grapes and the Merlot and Pinot Noir reds.
French/American Hybrids:
In an attempt to play safe, some of the New York wine producers struck a compromise by planting French/American hybrids. These grape varieties combine European style and characteristics with American vine hardiness and were originally developed by French viticulturists, back in the nineteenth century. Baco Noir and Chancellor are the most promising red wine varieties; Seyval Blanc and Vidal are the best whites.
The regions:
There are approximately 100 wineries and in excess of 30,000 acres (12,140 hectares) of vines in the six New York State AVAs. These are split into four main regions:
Finger Lakes - with the largest wine production outside California.
Hudson River Region - this area enjoys the largest concentration of premium farm wineries.
Lake Erie District - the largest grape growing region east of California.
Long Island - New York State's fastest developing and expanding wine growing region.
Recent trends and the way forward:
Probably the most significant developments, over the past few years have been in the wines of Long Island. This region has witnessed the largest growth in new wineries. Their predominant use of Vitis Vinifera grape varieties has led to Long Island wine producers competing more effectively, not only in the home market sector, but also in the world wine export market. As an added bonus, Long Island's extended growing season offers greater potential for the gradual maturation, in particular, of quality red grape varieties.
The Hudson Region has also benefited from the addition of a major winery, called Millbrook. Exciting world-class wines have recently emerged from this establishment, produced, mainly, from the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes.
Finally, the Finger Lake Region also continues to improve the quality of its wines, produced, largely, from grape varieties that thrive in cooler climates, such as Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The future looks bright for the New York State wine industry!
